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Wiring help for a quadrotor
#1

Good morning everyone,
I'm new here and new to the world of soldering/electronics. I have a background in computers, but never down to the sort of level I'm experiencing as I'm building my very first RC craft. I'm enjoying it immensely Smile

I have hit a snag though. I'm trying to figure out how to wire all of my ESCs and motors to my 1 battery. I am using the following:

1 x 5000 mAh Turnigy LiPo
4 x 30 AMP Turnigy ESC Plush
4 x DT750 Hextronik Brushless motors
Lots x XT60 male and female connectors

I don't know much about parallel and series connections, but I found a picture online of how I think I'd like to wire my connectors:
   

This is my current layout:
   

Using the parallel connector image as a guide, do you see any issue with this setup? I'm not sure what AWG rating wire I have, so I'm a little concerned with heat and the possibility of melting the silicon coating.
   

I apologise if I've been too vague or omitted any details. This is quite a learning curve, but it's slowly all starting to make sense. I'd appreciate any help or advice you can give me Smile
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#2

Looks right to me. Parallel is the connection you want here. The only concern is the length of wire from the battery to the four way split. You want that to be as thick and as short as possible. I would get 4 female XT60 leads( i.e. a bit of wire with female connector on the end) and solder the wire end onto the battery end as close to the battery as possible. Just be careful when soldering connectors to the battery - it's always live and if you short it, 5S will have oomph to disintegrate the tip of you soldering iron. Also you want a big ass soldering iron for this job - like 40-50W so that it can hear through five leads.

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#3

Heres an Idea That may make Things Easy Wink

Hard wire all escs to one point and then one large short gauge (Min 12 awg ) to one xt60 connector for connection to Lipo.

Why put xt60 connectors to every esc, Just extra weight, and you shouldn't really be changing the esc's all the Time so it shouldn't be a major thing.
And as for Programming you only use the signal wires to tx for that, individually of course.

Steve Wink

EDIT , EXTRA NOTE : Always be careful when soldering Live lipo connections, Lipo's can Be Very Very Dangerous

http://forum.rcflyingclub.com/showthread.php?tid=791&pid=14178&highlight=Lipo+safety#pid14178

IMPORTANT READ

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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#4

Doh, you're right Samste. Much better to have one connector than four. Also that means leaving the batteries stock and only doing the soldering once. I've never actually soldered that many wires together, how hard would that be?
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#5

I Twist them all together tight with my Pliars and use my mini blow Torch to solder Together.

But If you are not confident in Soldering Fallingwithsky the easy way would be to Buy 3 of the made up leads you Pictured above in the original Post and hook up that way.

Hobbyking have them in 10awg if that is the right size for you, or make them yourself if you not keen to hard wire. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...allel.html

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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#6

I went with a distro board:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Board.html

Best balance of being able to replace individual components and not much added weight
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#7

You D man Kieran...

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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#8

(16-04-2013, 03:20 PM)gbanger Wrote:  You D man Kieran...

Yep definately Knows His Rc Stuff, Rc Guru King Biggrin
If Only I knew Half The Stuff He Knows Smile

Steve Smile

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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#9

I've seen the distribution board, but was worried that a few people had said theirs had burnt out. I got this all soldered up after visiting an RC friend down the south coast.

Now I've just got to figure out the KK 2.0 board and why it won't arm itself to let me fly Frown
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#10

Flash to latest version, Reset all settings and run stick calibration. Throttle down push rudder right, Should Arm!
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#11

I've already upgraded the board to 1.5 firmware, and I noticed that it removed the handy "ESC Calibration" instructions from the board. I've calibrated the transmitter so that everything is tuned in great, but I still can't get it to arm.

I think I've done something wrong while calibrating the min/max throttle on the ESCs. I'll give it another shot shortly.
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