[wingtipper]

cant believe i'm excited about this little toy , it turned up today from HK , its the ARF kit , comes with motor only and props .
Unpainted , i need to fit servos which will be 9g 900 hxt 's . i'm yet to decide wether to use a 30mp esc out of a redundant stinger , or a 35 amp hk one i have here . , i have 2 nano tech 1000mah 4S 45-90c turnagy battery packs , these can be charged at 10c , i'll look forward to charge times here , JASON has offered a better prop , he says better than the stock ones .
i'll be doing amp and watt tests before flight. and have got a few ideas on colour paint and decals , i have a park flyer < spektrum dsmx 6 ch receiver , which i'm considering using , its a DSMX 6115 E , may fit a spektrum 500 DSM2 full range though <<<<<< ( comments appreciated ) <<<<<
it came double boxed from aust warehouse , which i appreciated as the outer box was pirced and damaged during transit . Looks like a very simple build .
i think i might use HOTMELT GLUE for the build , and cover up the hinge surfaces with wing hinge tape .
the hrdest choice so far is colour scheme , and receiver . should be maidening this by weeks end .
PICS TO COME

[secant0give]

Don't do anything to the hinges they are fine
I used gap filling CA to glue it together it fits well and that's the lightest way
Mine is one of the older ones it's had many flights and is still going fast
Even got a second ahead of JAG on sunday with it................as usual there was much Rubarb Rubarb about the graupner prop

[wingtipper]

WELL I HAVE THICK CA , I might use that then , and i know the throws are very small ,

[secant0give]

put the controll rods out on the furthest hole on the controll horns and on the inner most holes on the servo arms. don't set them up with big throws and you'll be cool

[gbanger]

I've got a AR6115 in my Minimoa glider and that sucker has been that far away I wasn't sure which way it was going and never had any isues with brown outs, on the other hand I've got a few AR500's in a number of my bigger foamies and never had any issues with them either, so to cut to the chase you could use either just make sure you get it as far away as you can from the ESC, motor and battery and you should be sweet.

[wingtipper]

Cheers . Couple of night shifts to do and then ill build .

[Claudius]

JASON has offered a better prop , he says better than the stock ones

Illegal things tend to be better

its a DSMX 6115 E

FWIW, I'm using an AR6100e in one of mine - no issues with it on the long course.

WELL I HAVE THICK CA

Likewise, one of mine was with Thick CA, the other with Medium (if I recall correctly).

[secant0give]

JASON has offered a better prop , he says better than the stock ones

Illegal things tend to be better

its a DSMX 6115 E

FWIW, I'm using an AR6100e in one of mine - no issues with it on the long course.

WELL I HAVE THICK CA

Likewise, one of mine was with Thick CA, the other with Medium (if I recall correctly).

As far as receivers go I'm using an orange 6 channel in both of mine and never had an issue. I'm pretty sure SRL is using the same receivers in his RareBears too.

I have 3 spare 5X5 APC props which are legal and your more than welcome to borrow one for the day they are much better than the stock prop and good for at least a 10% improvement.

I have 2 Graupner props which have 13X13 and 5.2X5.2 screen printed on them but also have 5X5 moulded in to the plastic near the hub,
Since they have 5X5 moulded into the plastic near the hub I contend that this is a legal 5X5 prop. I did have a spare one but I gave it to Jeremy to try on his rarebear to cheer him up after I beat him by half a second in just one race.

In truth he did fly a substantially better course than me but my plane speed gave me the edge to sneak past him. But that's racing!! I'm not sure it it's all attributable to the prop tho' there are a lot of things that combine to make a plane go faster. The reduction of drag accieved by using a spinner could easily make more difference than the prop and the two in combination would help even more. I did some other things to reduce drag as well ( I can't give away all the secrets tho' ) But I will say that I was running a stock motor and not one that was rewound.

Think about this, drag reduction does more for speed than adding more power. Becaues you need to increase the power by cubing it to double the speed. Simply put, if you half the drag it will give you a much better result than doubling the power.

The prop does help a little bit, but it's more of a smoke screen.
to take the attention off the real reason. which is a combination of several things.

My flying isn't superb like Jeremy's and I know that, so I have to compensate with greater plane speed.

[wingtipper]

Remember the little bits . Identicle , but mine flew better and was faster than yours .

[secant0give]

I might have been using 5.5X5.5 prop for that race tho

[wingtipper]

PROGRESS . after 1hr . few decals to go and then fitment of hardware . , using semi gloss tamiya black , and gloss tamiya flouro green , with enamal white cowel .

---

and i couldnt help myself . went slightly insane with decals . but this rarebear now looks so good , i want to put it on my desk as an ornament .

[wingtipper]

heres the underside

[gbanger]

Nice job Frank. That will look pretty "ken good it air.

[wingtipper]

guys being a belly lander . are you guys fitting prop savers to these ?

[gbanger]

I don't have one on mine,I am pretty sure none of the other guys run them either. The short 2 blade prop doesn't give any issues. Frank and Steve to touch'n'goes all the time and I am not aware of anyone having any problems.

[srl]

Here are some pictures of my 2.
           
srl

[secant0give]

Lookin' good Frank !!

Ready for a fly tomorrow ?

I hope to be down at the field before reasonably early

noone uses a prop saver, I run a spinner on mine it
reduces the drag quite a bit but if you do you will need a vent hole in the cowl

Here's a pic of the front end of mine.

   

[wingtipper]

your planes are looking real racer like Jason , thanks for the tip on the cowel vent . I couldnt finish the plane cause i got called in for work , worked bell to bell 6pm to 6am , add 1.5 hrs either side for travel , then stay up and get the kids ready for school and your not far off 18rs there , hence i didnt get up till 3.30 pm , might finish the plane off tonight , but i have to be up at 4am for dayshift tomorrow , and sunday , so maiden is put off till next week .

[wingtipper]

ok today she is ready for a maiden . this plane in ARF guise i spent almost 5 hours on . when fitting a 1000mah hr battary the battery compartment must be enlarged as its only designed for 850mah .
so its a pain to blade cut out the floor to suit , however after doing this its a good idea to re inforce the floor , with ply wood , you must go down around 8mm in depth , i did not like the 2mm plugd on the motor , besides i had non to fit , so i soldered my 30 amp x stinger esc in there and glued it to the side of the fuse , i tried every conceiveble way to fit the battery , and because of the lead size , this was the best fit for my plane . the receiver is at the back and 2x 1mm holes are in each side of the fuse to hold the aerial wires out , i cutout the cowel for air entry as suggested by other members , i also added a couple of exit air holes , any how she is set up .
the battery i chrged up 1 on 7amps and it took 7 minutes to charge ( cool ) . the other took 37 minutes at 1c both charged 510 mah and 540 mah respectively ,
i fitted the standard prop and ran some test data .
over a 1 minute static flat out test , it pulled a max of 25 amps , and 384 watts , and .361 amp hr , whichs suggests 2 minutes at full speed safely , and 3 minutes moderately . the esc got a little hot , but the motor got what i would say a little too hot . , in the air though this would be better cooled .
when building you must try every fit before glueng the servos and back of fuselage on , other wise you can catch yourself out . , but overall a rewarding build , and man does it have some thrust and noise in the garage . weight of the plane 402 g ( flying weight ) .
particularly happy with the canopy slide fit and lock down design . here are the final picks .




SHOULD I PUT LANDING SKIDS ON IT ????????

[secant0give]

Hey 'tipper that's lookin' real good !!

The motor will be a little cooler in the air but they do run hot
It's just the nature of these beasts!! They are working on the edge.
It's not a good idea to run them too long static as you can easily cook them like this, I've done it.

I brought a few of the replacement motors and I've gone through a couple of them. They are a bit of a consumable as soon as they start going noisy and running ragard ditch them and use a new one

I like the Turnigy dlux 30A esc, you need to set it up with high timing and 16Khz for current limiting PWM to get the absolute best out of it. I tested a couple of ESCs and setteled on this one.

I'd put a little clear tape over the servo's on the botom of the wing and over the groove that the wire leads run through and the groove where the cores that hold the spars in the mold go. This will cut down on a fair bit of drag too.

Mate I like that colour scheme !! WTG !!

[gbanger]

I didn't see any mention of "air out" holes Frank, don't forget to put a hole about 8mm in diameter down toward the tail on the underside of the fuse to let the air flow. There is no point in putting holes in to let the air in if you don't give it somewhere to go. When you drill the hole make sure you drill it at an acute angle to the airframe to induce a natural vacuum, it will increase the air flow without generating to much drag.

[samste]

Very Nice Color Scheme Frank, Looks Great

[Flying fisho]

Wont be long & we will have a field like the Melbourne cup in the air with Rare Bears. Well done Frank

[wingtipper]

YEP the air holes are there Gary . there is a radial slot , in the cowel , in front of the ESC , there is a 8mm hole on the right side of the motor cowel , there is 2 holes in the tail at the bottom of the fuse . but the ones i think will work the most are these ones in the canopy , either side of the pilot .
prop wash should induce a pressure drop in these areas nicely drawing the air out , and this is in the battery esc compartment . cant wait to maiden it tomorrow .
oh . and i recommend buying a spare bear as well as a few hxt 900"s and a motor or two , i only had 100 bucks to spend when i bought this , i will buy spares asap . really i should have 3 identicle ones hanging up here . but i have a wife . and for the life of me i hope she never gives me an ultimatum , it would be a real pain in the arse going through a marraige split . LOL .

[secant0give]

Just one hole at the back.

I originally had an exit hole right next to the ESC and it did work well on keeping it cool But................................it's very draggy to have holes where air exits on the side of the fuse.
once I taped over the exit holes I put in the side of the fuse on my RareBear it was like taking the handbreak off !! I just have one hole way up the back like Gazz suggests and I even taped up the existing one under the fuse.
To say any more would be giving up all the secrets and since all I know is secrets then with no secrets left, I won't know anything at all ????????????

Btw a good smooth 600 grit sanding to remove all those little dimples on the wings fuz tail and fin, that it comes with from the factory, will reduce a lot of drag and you'll notice a fair difference in speed just from doing that.

[smuzz]

Yes, as Wayne has already pointed out in another thread - you've got to be careful with your "rear air hole"

[secant0give]

Yes, as Wayne has already pointed out in another thread - you've got to be careful with your "rear air hole"

That's for sure !!

[wingtipper]

Well today the rare bear had its maiden flight . hand launched at 1/2 throttle and off she went . it was too fast at 1/2 throttle to take the hands off the sticks for triming , and very quickly turned into a dot in the sky . AS thew adrenal caught up to the speed of the plane i backed it off to 1/3 throttle and managed to do a bit of triming of the elevator , flight went for 2.30 minutes with no problems landing ,
2nd flight aileron trimming and 3 minute time , finally got it balanced after a full speed launch which flipped it upside down with torque roll .
3rd flight , managed some nice flying and mucked around with dual rates etc . tried standing in the centre of the flying area and turned with the plane.
4th flight had trims dual rates and launch technic sorted tried low flying at 1/2 throttle , much smoother , and knife edge all the way around .
5th flight same again at high speed ,
6th flight . technique practice , turns and level wing flying , rather then knife edge circuits .
much fun and you get dizzy .
all in all had 8 flights . did a large loop and the thing did this with no aileron input and kept a continual radius . i could not believe it flies and trqacks perfectly like my 50e size mx2 .
8th flight . did sport flying from pilot box , and it was just fun longest flight was 3.30 which took 740 mah charge . so set flights at 3 minutes .
came to realise , punching these things over 10 laps in under 2.30 and losing battery after 2 minutes , must be a real mind challange . LOL
CONCLUSION : VERY FAST , VERY DIRECT FLYER , PERFECTLY BALANCED , AND GOOD GLIDER , NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED - NEED RESTS BETWEEN EACH FLIGHT . LOL . CAME OME WITHOUT A SCRATCH .

[gbanger]

That's great news Frank, glad to hear it all when smoothly you got the bugs ironed out and you enjoyed all your flights... but the best news is that you took it home in one piece

[wingtipper]

thanks Gary . the canopy holes work a treat too , i wont be blocking them , the esc abnd motor were coming down barely warm .
yes its great to bring home in one peice its something thats only started to happen with my planes recently , but the odds are about still 50/50 . LOL