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Parkzone P-47D Thunderbolt
#1

I know a few of us have one, but I couldn't find a thread already in place.

I've only just got around to assembling my replacement airframe kit after having it boxed away for over a year. The details of the power train ....

Motor: Turnigy NTM 3542 - 1000kV (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00KV_700W.html)
ESC: Turnigy Trust 45A (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html)
Prop and hub: Durafly P-51/P-47 which from my measurements seems to be a 10x6x4 but it hasn't got that indicated anywhere, so I can't be sure.
Batteries: 3S 2200mAh Nanotech

Static test result: 38 Amps, 1400g thrust

The plane is just a fraction nose-heavy with this configuration, I've got a little moving-around to do to correct that. Overall performance is just what I was after - it's not a bullet, but it has acceptable top speed for a low pass and climbs really well. It's not really that efficient because I think the top 15% to 20% of the throttle movement results in more power consumption for practically no return in either speed or thrust so I might make an end-point adjustment to save the wastage there. Predictably, the heavy prop on a 1000kV motor results in a tendency to roll to the left just after take-off, but once you're ready for that it's easy to deal with - certainly not a hazardous problem. I wanted to use the prop for its semi-scale looks. The Durafly Mustang and Thunderbolt have 750kV motors, which is probably more sensible with this prop - I might experiment with a change to the motor one day, but for the moment everything is pretty good so I'll leave it as is.

A great model and all the things I've read about it over the past couple of months are verified in my experience. I wish I'd put it together months ago.

The next thing to do is do the flap mod and then an individual paint job. Here's a couple of shots of the business-end with the prop on display ...

           

Steve Murray
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#2

I bought one of these before my first Trojan which was a bit of a mistake whilst still very much a beginner level pilot. Torque roll left on take-off is a consistant characteristic & with eliptical wings, it was a bit tip-stally & a handful to fly. It even came down once on a buddy cord for unexplainable reasons. One of my flap servo's bit the dust & likes to move around a bit during flight interfering with level flight. My interests have wandered from warbirds & the PZ P47D lays hibernating in the bedroom.
I still have the original 950kv outrunner motor, 30amp speedie & 9.5 x 7.5 2 blade prop
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#3

nice one SMUZZ .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#4

(10-02-2013, 07:49 PM)Flying fisho Wrote:  ... My interests have wandered from warbirds & the PZ P47D lays hibernating in the bedroom.
...

Yeh, I'd noticed that. All good though, the hobby/sport is broad enough to accommodate a pretty large cross-section of interests.

I've realised that even though I got back into aeromodelling with the aim of building a UAV (a work-related thing), I've shelved that for the time being and I'm more interested in scale/semi-scale models.

@Wingtipper - thanks mate, still some minor tweaking to do but it's a keeper for sure!

Steve Murray
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#5

Hope my comments did not sound critical of the P47. Is a good plane that lives up to Parkzone's good reputation, just not suitable for the rank novice that I was at the time.
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#6

I've had about a dozen flights now and I think I've finally got it all tweaked out. It lands beautifully and with some pairs of washers underneath the rear retract mounts to rake the gear forward a little, it handles well enough on the ground with only the occasional prop-strike when taxiing.

The takeoffs were the most difficult parts of the flight to get looking reasonably scale because the tendency to pull left remains well after the plane has left the ground. There's a lot of rudder, throttle and elevator work to do in the right order and in the right measure to get it to take off nice and straight with a gentle climb-out ... plus, there's the gear switch too - but that's at the end of the busy part and doesn't take much concentration Wink

I'm undecided as to whether to install the flaps - it certainly doesn't need them. A little paintwork to individualise the scheme is definitely in order though.

All in all, it's a great model - there's an ardent following of this machine on RCGroups and I can see why it has so many fanatical fans.

Steve Murray
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#7

Its Good To hear, They are a Nice looking machine and a little more work flying than the Stock Std T28 by the sounds of it but that's the fun of it Biggrin

Steve Smile

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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#8

I'm pretty sure I burned my motor out today - haven't checked it completely, but as PeterH suggested, the "sniff test" indicates one phase has been toasted.

The motor is an NTM Propdrive 3542 1000kV and it's been a bit dicey for a while - whenever I went to full-throttle, the motor would squeak and shudder before catching up with things and revving properly. The motor is supposed to be capable of transferring 700W and I'm using a 45A ESC on 3S - performance is good, but I suspect I got a motor which had a latent fault. At the moment, I want to drop in an exact replacement (if I have one ... must check) and see how things turn out.

It's a top plane though - it tracks well and lands beautifully for a tail-dragger. I want to get this one back up there ....

Steve Murray
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#9

(14-12-2013, 12:52 AM)smuzz Wrote:  I'm pretty sure I burned my motor out today - haven't checked it completely, but as PeterH suggested, the "sniff test" indicates one phase has been toasted.

The motor is an NTM Propdrive 3542 1000kV and it's been a bit dicey for a while - whenever I went to full-throttle, the motor would squeak and shudder before catching up with things and revving properly. The motor is supposed to be capable of transferring 700W and I'm using a 45A ESC on 3S - performance is good, but I suspect I got a motor which had a latent fault. At the moment, I want to drop in an exact replacement (if I have one ... must check) and see how things turn out.

It's a top plane though - it tracks well and lands beautifully for a tail-dragger. I want to get this one back up there ....

It might not be a bad Idea to pot the windings in next motor with 5 min epoxy. IOt's not hard to do and doesn't take very long.
I had trouble with windings on FunFighter replacement motors. They are wound with 7 wires in parallel and if you loose a couple the motor still runs but not very well. What I think happens is the windings vibrate a lot and that fatigues them. You can certainly notice a decrease in sound when a motor has been potted. And funnily enough since I did that I haven't replaced a single rarebear motor and they really have had some filghts on them now, did I mention that when they are running work pretty hard too? Smile

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#10

Yes mate - a very good idea and it hadn't crossed my mind, even though you've talked about this in other threads in the past. I'll have a chat to you about this before I try it out.

Edit: Just looking at my first post in this thread where I'd measured 38A at full-bore in a static test. That motor should have been capable of sustaining that, so I suspect it was a "Friday afternoon" production.

Steve Murray
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