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Super & Cheaper MX2 - Build log
#1

It has been suggested that I create a build log for my recently purchased Super & Cheaper MX2. This will be a blind leading the blind thing but am willing to give it a go. I suppose the first thing is the purchase link
http://superandcheaper.com.au/view_product.asp?id=1284
Ordered & paid for 17/2/13 and arrived today via Australia Post from Melbourne. Not double boxed but arrived without any first inspection damage.
Decided the first thing to do is read up on the instructions. Shock Written in Chinglish and are the instructions for their Extra 260, Edge 540, Extra 300LP, MX2, Yak 54, Yak 55M, Sukhoi SU29, Sukhoi SU 26m, Raven & Katana combined. Expecting book size ? Apparrently nothing varies from plane to plane. Nup 15 pages made up mostly of indecipherable pictures & barely useful wordings.
Will try to include some pics soon if I can fumble my way through that task whist fumbling my way through the build.
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#2

HMMM this was my thread . hope it helps , i havent read back through it yet . but one thing i can assure you , if built properly it will be very hard to fault . good purchase .

http://forum.rcflyingclub.com/showthread.php?tid=724
no need to strengthen the undercarraige , just paint it with epoxy , on the inside of the fuse . i'm just a phone call away if you have issues . but the plane is very well put together , no mods required . get some 3 inch light foam wheels , and a 15x6/ lightwood prop . leave the wheel pants off . cheers . and mine came with a plastic bag , no instructions, full of spares,( ply wood that had dovetail cutouts) after mucking around with them i could form a cube , which had pre cut holes through the centre , i worked out that this was the electric conversion kit . i just hard face epoxyed it on , and drilled some holes for bolts and nuts ( supplied in pack ) . hope yours is the same . just take your time it will be worth it in the end. 30hrs

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#3


I like the red colour sceme !!
I think your going to really like this one Wayne

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#4

What servo's are you using Wayne?

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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#5

Spent a lot of time looking for standard HK servo's not on back order. I know these are an overkill by a long shot but were a pick of a bad bunch.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=8778
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#6

Memo to self before applying locktite to screws, ensure screw passes all the way thru blind nut. One of the screws for the landing gear was damaged part way up & became jammed before fully tightening. Additional pressure with phillips head screwdiver made screw unturnable & dislodged blind nut. Out came dremel turning rounded phillips head into slotted and allowed removal. New screw obtained today. So day one, landing gear installed. Great start. Looking forward to more faulty parts.
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#7


I'd be inclined to go for these, heaps of torque for the job, nice and fast, super reliable and only $2 more than the other ones. Not only that they are only 2/3 of the weight you'll be saving 2 1/2 ounces over the 4 servos.

http://www.philshobbyshop.com/catalog/vi...=HRC32225S&itemname=mighty_mini_servo_hs-225mg_universal

or better still these there less than 1/2 the weight and digital metal gear servo's It's a weight saving of nearly 4 ounces, that a 1/4 of a pound !!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Hitec-HS-...0616309453.
They are the same ones I use in my Edge 540 and my PA Extra, wingtipper also has them in his MX

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#8

Hopefully servo's I have chosen will do the job as are already shipped from HK awaiting arrival at home. The first one you gave link to was a park servo & would have required adapter plate which would partially have made up weight difference. Second link to ebay item no longer available. Thanks for suggestions anyway.
Q. Horisontal stabiliser not a tight fit in its fuse hole, no mention of baring balsa for gluing. Presume is recommended even tho not mentioned in inadequate instructions
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#9

^^^^^ yes thats right . the horizontal stabilizer was a bastard to fit , because it requires lots of epoxy , i did mine with 5 minute epoxy because of this i had a lot of blobbing , if i could do it again i would use 20min epoxy, because it is a loose fit you have to make sure it doesnt move while setting . i jinxed mine bye eye , however the loose fit allows the glue to run between surfaces for good adherence .
i recommend fit the wings 1st and use them as an alignment reference when fitting stabaliser . this isnt in the instructions as far as i recall , and because its a rather large model allow gluing to dry over night .

WAYNE ? IM CONFUSED ? those servos you ordered are they 47g or 79g each ?

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#10

In my previous balsa planes I have used CA glue for Horisontal Stab (as per real instructions) but they had a tight fit. Although you implied but that you stripped film off joining area, can I presume you did. I have 30min epoxy which I hadn't thought of Tounge but may have Wink
Servo reviews confirmed 47g weight, 79g indicates shipping weight for postage purposes. One reviewer state he had some burn out servos but no mention of loading at time. Most were happy recipients.
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#11

(24-01-2013, 06:03 AM)Flying fisho Wrote:  In my previous balsa planes I have used CA glue for Horisontal Stab (as per real instructions) but they had a tight fit. Although you implied but that you stripped film off joining area, can I presume you did. I have 30min epoxy which I hadn't thought of Tounge but may have Wink
Servo reviews confirmed 47g weight, 79g indicates shipping weight for postage purposes. One reviewer state he had some burn out servos but no mention of loading at time. Most were happy recipients.

Wayne, whenever i bond two surfaces together, i always ensure i strip back the covering so that i am bonding two surfaces of the same type.
And for strength i always use epoxy.

Dynam Pitts 12 EPO
Eflite Advance 25e
HK P-51D Mustang
3D Reaktor
Pitts Python S12 EP 54inch EPO
Kinetic 800

Decathlon EP 62.6inch
Stinger 64 EDF
Spektrum DX6i (mode 1)

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#12

(24-01-2013, 06:03 AM)Flying fisho Wrote:  In my previous balsa planes I have used CA glue for Horisontal Stab (as per real instructions) but they had a tight fit. Although you implied but that you stripped film off joining area, can I presume you did. I have 30min epoxy which I hadn't thought of Tounge but may have Wink
Servo reviews confirmed 47g weight, 79g indicates shipping weight for postage purposes. One reviewer state he had some burn out servos but no mention of loading at time. Most were happy recipients.

i agree with popeye pete .
its a 50e size plane , on this size use epoxy , on my smaller ones i use CA also , but on the bigger ones especially 3d planes your pulling serious G's , also yes i did strip off film , very important to do so , and almost undetectable if you use a blade and cut about 2,3mm border outside of the edge , of the glueing joint . the bead will cover it . i know what your saying about the instructions , theyre inadequate , very happy to help as ive built it and encountered a few problems i can share , cheers .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#13

I would use west epoxy and filler, mix it thick so it doesn't drool out of the joint while it's curing.
Five min or 30 min epoxy probably will drool on you.
You can use the same filler with 30min epoxy just let me know if you want some and I'll bring it to the field on Satterday.

make sure you pack it with thin balsa wedges to it sets straight, eyeball it against the the wing spar tube from behind Smile

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#14

West systems is good shit but a good quality 30 minute epoxy is more than sufficient. If your clearances are a little on the large side you can use a dash of talcum power (even though micro ballons are better) to make a very good filler, but if you have a good fitting joint, a good epoxy is more than enough... the timber will fail long before the epoxy even goes close to letting go.
Remember the slower epoxies generate less heat and are more viscous so during curing they will flow into the timber grain better that a fast curing one. The better you key the mating surfaces the better and stronger the bond. Scuff the joint surfaces up with some 80 grit sandpaper, but be gentle... you will get a much stronger joint if you increase the surface area between the two surfaces.
That will be my 30 years of Marine structural repair talkng there.
Gazz

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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#15

Both my Eflite Eratix & Eflite Pulse instructions stated CA for this task but were already a tight fit.
I think it was you Jason who directed me to FMS in Seven hills where I bought micro light filler & epoxy. Not sure of brand. Can use that, however may not be necessary as gap will only be the thickness of the film & epoxy should suffice.
Remembered Jasons previous verbal suggestion to line up Horisontal Stab with wing spar after installing wheel struts but appreciate all reminders. Sometimes suggestions get lost in my grey matter Tounge.
Thanks guys for continued support. Am hoping this build log & associated questions outside of normal Q&A thread will be useful for future builders of this value for money plane.
Am impressed by horisontal stabiliser, elevator & ailerons, not flat constructions like Eratix, Pulse & aptly named HK moneyshot.
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#16

Been away with fishing club. Back to the build.
Horizontal Stabiliser wasnt as sloppy as I thought it would be after cutting covering film off mating surfaces. 30 min apoxy now has them held firmly & parallel to wing spar in both horizontal planes.
Decided to stick with the CA hinges for control surfaces. Gave them a bit more adherence by drilling 2mm holes in hinge slits on stab & elevators so that holes line up with rectangular cutouts on CA hinges. CA will be drawn into holes by capiliary action & seep sideways into hinges & balsa & give greater holding power. (as per Eratix instructions)
Elevators are in 2 separate pieces with U shaped 2.5mm piano wire epoxied into holes in evevators. (It is easier to insert wire elevator joiner before positioning the Horison Stabiliser) I used clothes pegs & paddlepop sticks to keep each elevator aligned with the Horisontal Stab while waiting for Epoxy to cure. After this cure time ensured gaps were even & dropped thin CA onto the hinges. Do not use kicker as this will prevent hinges & balsa from absorbing the CA.
Control horn epoxied into slot. Hole for servo cut out of plywood but not out of cover film located about 10mm forward & central to Stab and is parksize servo cutout unlike standard size aileron & rudder servo cutouts.
Instructions for rudder instalation reasonable clear in instruction book with exception of wire Pull/Pull wire. Have used blunt side cutters to crimp wire crimp tubes. Unsure if I should also solder or epoxy for extra safety. Also not sure of tension.
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#17


I usually zap the wire into the crimped tubes for a little extra secutity. I've never had one one loose. The wires need a bit of tension. you should only feel the backlash of the servo when you move the rudder. It shouldn't flop around. One thing to check is that it's not tight around the center and gets looser as you move the rudder over to each side. If it does this you need to move the holes in the controll horn off the center line by the same ammount as the holes on the rudder are from the centerline of the hinge. then it will work spot on. I've had this little adventure once before.



Did they give you a controoll horn extention for the rudder with the Kit ??

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#18

Wire tensions appear consistant when moving the servo arm.
Control Horn extension?? Not sure what you mean and nothing in the kit seems to match that description. There was an extended servo arm that screws onto servo arm supplied with servo's.
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#19

(29-01-2013, 05:39 AM)Flying fisho Wrote:  Wire tensions appear consistant when moving the servo arm.
Control Horn extension?? Not sure what you mean and nothing in the kit seems to match that description. There was an extended servo arm that screws onto servo arm supplied with servo's.

The extended servo arm was what I was refering too.
Sorry about my previous post being a little unclear.

It's good that the tension remains the same right through the rudder's travel.

Please post some pics Smile

Frank AKA wingtipper, had a lucky escape with his MX2 on Satterday. He managed to shatter it's propellor against the powerlines then fly it back for a nice landing on just the stubs of the wooden prop. Other than the wooden prop being in shards, there was no other damage to the airframe at all !!



“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#20

OMG, hope he bought a lottery ticket, strike while the luck is hot.
I did forget to mention that when I was connecting the rudder control wires, I attached it to the servo arm first. Turned the beast upsidedown & connected wire to rudder horn applying tension. Next comes the idiot part. Didnt realise I had moved the servo arm off centre & ended up with wire too short and insufficient adjustment on ball links to correct. Insufficient wire to make another. Luckily I was able to turn the servo around reducing required length.
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#21

(29-01-2013, 04:57 PM)secant0give Wrote:  Frank AKA wingtipper, had a lucky escape with his MX2 on Satterday. He managed to shatter it's propellor against the powerlines then fly it back for a nice landing on just the stubs of the wooden prop. Other than the wooden prop being in shards, there was no other damage to the airframe at all !!

Now that is "flying" !!
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#22

here's the prop . gotta love the MX2 . this prop supplied about 5 seconds worth of low speed thrust in this config .




Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#23

You beat me to it I have a Pic as well



Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#24

It was a good spectacle to watch - there was a clearly audible knock when it struck the line, but it was glancing contact so the plane didn't change course much. Tipper was smart enough not to overdo it with the five seconds of thrust, gently borrowing some short bursts - just enough to return to the runway and not so much that the vibration started to rip things apart.
Too bad it wasn't captured on video because it was an expertly done bit of recovery work!

Steve Murray
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#25

(29-01-2013, 05:39 AM)Flying fisho Wrote:  Wire tensions appear consistant when moving the servo arm.
Control Horn extension?? Not sure what you mean and nothing in the kit seems to match that description. There was an extended servo arm that screws onto servo arm supplied with servo's.

May be too late for more advice on the pull-pull set-up, but for extra security I looped the wire through the servo arm/horn twice. This also helped keep the tension whilst crimping the fiddly bastards.

Dynam Pitts 12 EPO
Eflite Advance 25e
HK P-51D Mustang
3D Reaktor
Pitts Python S12 EP 54inch EPO
Kinetic 800

Decathlon EP 62.6inch
Stinger 64 EDF
Spektrum DX6i (mode 1)

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#26

Pre-installed firewall on the MX2 is for gas motor. Plywood pieces were supplied to build box to extend firewall. Is going to be fun lining up box to centre the prop adapter through the cowl. "Instructions Tounge" remotely allude to securing the box to the existing firewall by blind nuts & screws. Presumably in lieu of epoxy so can be removed if later converting to gas. Intend screwing motormount to new firewall with woodscrews (not supplied with plane or motor accessory pack).
   
(yeeehhhaaaaa actually worked out how to add a picture)
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#27

(30-01-2013, 08:08 PM)Flying fisho Wrote:  Pre-installed firewall on the MX2 is for gas motor. Plywood pieces were supplied to build box to extend firewall. Is going to be fun lining up box to centre the prop adapter through the cowl. "Instructions Tounge" remotely allude to securing the box to the existing firewall by blind nuts & screws. Presumably in lieu of epoxy so can be removed if later converting to gas. Intend screwing motormount to new firewall with woodscrews (not supplied with plane or motor accessory pack).

On most of the models I've set up there is a big hole in the center of the firewall. I screw the motor to it's mouint, then I put a bolt through that and the firewall with a couple of decent washers to hold the engine mount and motor in place while I fit the cowl. Then once I get it all in the right place like that, I spot the mounting holes through from the motor mount to the fire wall and remove the bolt and washers.


“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#28

[/quote]

May be too late for more advice on the pull-pull set-up, but for extra security I looped the wire through the servo arm/horn twice. This also helped keep the tension whilst crimping the fiddly bastards.
[/quote]

Oops to late but thanks, but agree with their description
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#29

looking good . after the engine is mounted the rest is just setting up .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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#30

Thanks Frank, did you screw or glue the extended firewall onto original or screw it on
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