[fly_away]

I have a "spare" M2 DX6i I'm sure I could sell at a totally unreasonable price .

How obscenely unreasonable are we talking of here.

(RRP is around $230.)

[fly_away]

I have got hold of a couple of second hand planes but they all have FM Rx and Tamiya female plugs for the battery. I am planning to change all the Rx with 2.4 GHz Rx. However what is the best way to connect my Lipo Jst batteries to these Tamiya female plugs? I cound not find any female Jst to male tamiya connectors. will I have to change all the plugs? Changing plugs will need crimping tools I think? Any advice? TIA

[Skidz]

Have never seen such an adaptor. It sounds like you will need to change the connectors so they are both JST male/female pairs. You will need to use soldering iron and heat shrink tubing. Be careful to do one battery wire at a time to avoid short circuits from having both battery wires stripped and exposed at the same time.

[paulj]

Hi Sujit,
I doubt if you would find any members here who use Tamiya plugs
on their batteries. They are more likely to be found on RC Cars.
Most of us use XT60 plugs (male/female) which we buy from
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=9572

We also buy our batteries from Hobby King in Hong Kong and the XT60 female plug
is already attached(soldered) to the battery(except for the larger high powered batteries)
The male XT60 plug gets soldered onto the red/black wires that are attached to the electronic speed controller (ESC). You will not need crimpers for these.

[fly_away]

Most of us use XT60 plugs (male/female) which we buy from
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=9572

Thanks Paul,

OK cool - I get the picture. I will change all the plugs to XT60 - cheap - and way to go. I just have to make sure I solder it nicely. I have got hold of these second hand planes:

1) Slo-V (this has another plug -dont know the name)
2) An EXtrafun from modelengines with a broken wing (Tamiya)
3) Dynam Hawksky (good condition) (JST PLug)
4) Electrafun XP with broken wing (Tamiya)

So a lot of work ahead of me.

I plan to buy a mini-swift and a parkzone vapor (for indoor and home flying in bad weather).

Hopefully I should be all ready by June when the new memberships start..

[Drew]

Sujit,

The mini-swift is not an indoor plane. It has to fly quite fast and is a lot of fun in a reasonable park. The vapor (or night vapor) is good indoors and so are some of the "micro" HK series.

If you're into building, my current favourite indoor plane is the Index3 from AIO of RC Groups. A really simple build profile plane from depron. Depron is easily available from Depron Australia, or if you only need a couple of sheets, I've got some spares I could sell you to save waiting for shipping.

[fly_away]

Sujit,

The mini-swift is not an indoor plane. It has to fly quite fast and is a lot of fun in a reasonable park. The vapor (or night vapor) is good indoors and so are some of the "micro" HK series.

If you're into building, my current favourite indoor plane is the Index3 from AIO of RC Groups. A really simple build profile plane from depron. Depron is easily available from Depron Australia, or if you only need a couple of sheets, I've got some spares I could sell you to save waiting for shipping.

Hi Drew,

What I am after is a smallish slow flyer (4CH) (if one existed) so that I can hone in my reflexes and learn at the same time. I have had some fun with the electrafun (broken wings crashed etc). I have flown it around reasonably well in calm weather but really struggle with the slightest wind. So I am down on confidence a bit. Yes I love building and will look around for the profile. There have been so many wet days of recent that I wished I had a decent indoor plane.

Thanks for the tips..

[Kedumba]

Depron is easily available from Depron Australia, or if you only need a couple of sheets, I've got some spares I could sell you to save waiting for shipping.

Hey Drew,
What size are the depron sheets and how much would you be asking for? I'm thinking I might like to play with making some planes as well
Thanks

Mick

[samste]

[quote='Drew' pid='5787' dateline='1304331675']
Sujit,
I have had some fun with the electrafun (broken wings crashed etc). I have flown it around reasonably well in calm weather but really struggle with the slightest wind.

With The Electra fun, you need to exaggerated the control surfaces by adding extra Rudder and elevator surface area.
As well as increasing servo movement past 100% to (eg 130%)
This will help it be more responsive in windy conditions.

Ultimately a 4 channel plane is what you want to be flying for control in all conditions and fun in flying movements etc.
Aileron, rudder, elevator, throttle.

A good flight Sim may be cheaper in honing in skills and getting a fly when conditions are bad.
Sims has its rewards in that theres no expense when you crash, but i understand that flying the real thing is SO much more Fun.

Steve

[kizza42]

Have a look at the Hobbyzone Champ as an ok indoor plane.

[fly_away]

With The Electra fun, you need to exaggerated the control surfaces by adding extra Rudder and elevator surface area.
As well as increasing servo movement past 100% to (eg 130%)
This will help it be more responsive in windy conditions.

Steve

Yes the servos are hard to get at and the mouting screw sockets wear off quickly. I did do the rudder servo. Overall even with the neutral rudder position it tends to veer to the right. I wonder why this is - gyroscopic effect? Anyway time to take out my hawksky. Lets see if I can make it on Saturday.

[Drew]

I think the sheets are 3mm or 2mm @ 350mmx1000mm. It would be good to start with the 3mm and even some 6mm if you can scrounge some for a first cut.

The Index is ideal for floaty indoors if you use 3.7g servos, the unboxed 4CH Orange receiver and a 10-20g motor. Build it under 120g and it will go slow, over 180g and it will be too fast to learn with. Build it under 100g and it will be like flying a piece of paper - just sitting in the air waiting for the next input.

Jason, Chris and I have planes like this profile from EPP or regular foam which perform quite well in a small park but are a bit heavy to perform indoors (especially with inexperienced fingers): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=11339.


Under 800mm wingspan, you need to pretty anal about weight and use specialised kit like the AR6400L receiver and 1.7g liner servos, etc.

[robair]

Gday All

Hoping someone will be able to help me out with a TX issue. I mentioned in another post that I was having some probs keeping my heli's in a nice stable hover in the vertical sense. I have also noticed that my throttle position has been a bit erratic flying my fixed wing stuff. I was flying the GT500 on the weekend and doing some tail rotor work and noticed that my ballooning got even worse. In a moment of clarity I realised the 2 probs were connected and due to the fact I have no ratcheting on my throttle on the DX8. This is something that I was aware of however thought I could overcome it over time. I am shifting the throttle all over the shop when aileron/ tail rotor control is moved.
To cut a long story short has anyone pulled apart their TX to add/ remove this ratchet. If so could I have a hand? I don't have the confidence to pull the bugger apart and add the ratchet in?

Cheers
Rob B

[gbanger]

Dave and I were actually discussing this on the weekend when I had just come back from taking a new plane of Rons up for a maiden for him and i commented to Dave that his throttle was a bit stiffer that I like and it was quite notchy.
When I asked Ron about it her said he adjusted it because he likes it that way.
So replying to your question, Dave said he had flown a heli with the notchy controls and it made it very difficult to find a neutral hover because one click to much made the heli climb vertically and if he droped it back one notch it was too much and the heli droped. Not an ideal situation when trying to find that sweet spot for holding a hover. You could however stiffen up the stick a little without engaging the ratchet this might help you surging.
Gazz

[stillflyin]

My DX6i came with a ratchet that could be fitted if wanted. I did and also tightened up all the gimbals spring tensions. Just a matter of taking the back off and following the guide in the instruction book. Made the movements a lot more positive.

cheers
John H

[robair]

Gday John/ Gazz

Thanks for the advice, I may have a shot at tightening the stick tension as suggested. I'll whip out the manual and see what is involved. Hopefully I can tension up just the throttle (up/down) and leave the aileron (left right) unchanged.

I was also thinking of changing how I manipulate the sticks, ie, rather then thumb on top use two fingers? How do you guys fly?
Is this a difficult transition?

Cheers
Rob B

[gbanger]

Most people fly with their thumbs . I know Kieran flys with his thumbs and index finger.

[robair]

Gday Gazz

Yep, the determination is thumb only or thumb and index.
Might try the latter? I can test that out on the HK Pitss, if i pulverise it in the process it will fit into the category of who cares/ replace it.

[Skidz]

You could also try lengthening the stick. That way the thumb movement doesn't translate to as much "digital" movement inside. I found the reverse helped when I wanted more sensitivity. It would make sense the reverse could be helpful.

D.

[gbanger]

Hello Pilots
It would appear that after a little battery issue I need a little YELLOW ULTRACOTE does anyone have any. I dont want to order a roll for such a tiny repair.
Gazz

[brotherblonde]

Regarding the thumb/forefinger thing.. I use thumb and forefinger on the left stick (Mode 2 > throttle/rudder) and thumb on the right stick (aileron/elevator)

I was taught this way when I started in helis to reduce the movement of the left stick when learning to hover. I might get it right one day too.)

[smuzz]

Hello Pilots
It would appear that after a little battery issue I need a little YELLOW ULTRACOTE does anyone have any. I dont want to order a roll for such a tiny repair.
Gazz

I've got some yellow "Solarfilm" and "Solarcover" Gazz - dunno if there's any real difference between them and Ultracote. How much would you like?
Steve

[gbanger]

Ultracote, solarfilm,etc they are all the same thing.
How much you got champ (that you are willing to part with that is)
I need to cover the bottom of my Katana landing gear area and both lift generators
About 500mm by 5000mm would be plenty
Gazz

[smuzz]

OK mate - I've got the end of a roll of Solarfilm which is about 500mm wide by about 300mm and I've got a whole roll of Solarcover which I can easily cut a 500mm square from. You can have both if you like, no worries.

[gbanger]

If youve got a whole roll and dont mind.
I'll have a meter thanks Steve.
I will drop over one evening this week and pick it up.
Gazz

[smuzz]

No worries Gazz - that's fine. Let me know when and I'll make sure I'm here!

[popeyepete]

Simple question i hope

What does the 1P mean in the battery description;

ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C ?

Some of the lipo's have this added to the cell count and others dont????

[smuzz]

It means that there are three cells in series (that's the 3S bit of course) but only one parrallel combination of this arrangement - it's a bit redundant in the standard configuration. Compare it with 3S2P which means six cells altogether, but with an arrangement of two parrallel sets of three series cells. So 3S2P is still only 11.1V, but with twice the capacity of a comparable 3S1P arrangement.

[gbanger]

Excellent answer Steve....... you win a Cookie..... no offence mate just feelin a little cheeky.
What time tomorrow evening would be ok to drop round to pick up the solar film.
Gazz

[smuzz]

Good news Gazz - you can bring the cookie when you visit tomorrow then
Any time at all after about 5:00pm mate, I'll be here.
Email me for the address: stevem@eng.uts.edu.au