[smuzz]

Yes - that would do the trick.
Try putting some temporary pieces of tape flat across the rudder and fin on one side just to hold both parts in the correct position, then you can put tape into the correct hinging position on the other side - remember to push the rudder into a full-deflection position and then tape right down into the hinge line. Turn it over and remove the temporary pieces and then push the rudder rull-throw the other way and repeat.

[Claudius]

Another option would be to use a tension hinge.

Take two bits of tape. Put their sticky sides together with about a quarter length overlap. One end sticks on one face of the vertical fin, one end sticks on the opposite face on the rudder, with the overlapped section running through the hinge point. Repeat at least two more times along the height of the rudder.

Edit: since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's another post with a bit over a thousand words: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6372847&postcount=19

[BenR]

Another option would be to use a tension hinge.

(snip description)

Thanks this idea looks promising - will try this way first and see how it goes.

[wingtipper]

question # the specs say i can charge my 20c batteries at 2c . so if i charge my 6s 3000mah batteries at 6 amp . is that perfectly ok ? i know 1c is the correct charge , but will it really make a lot of difference charging at 2c ?

[gbanger]

If the battery is approved for higher C rate charging then your 6 amps is fine. Yes it will make a big difference, charging at 2C will cut charge time in half or thereabouts...
Most standard Lipos prefer charging at 1C, Charging them at higher than the recommended rate can cause lipo failure and that usually means a nasty fire.
A lot of the newer higher C rating Lipos are now approved for 2, 3 and even 4C charging, but be careful, preliminary indications are that Lipos that are continually charged at a high C rate have a much shorter life span, so... what all that boils down to is... if you have the time charge 'em slowly.

[wingtipper]

ok thanks Gary

[wingtipper]

TAIL DRAGERS !!!!!!! .
MY FMS F4U corsair , has stalled on take off and wingtipped , causing a bit of damage , now often i have noticed on take off the thing tracks to the left and lifts off too early , side thrust will do that ,and unfortunately at stall speed torque roll from a big prop also wants to bank it to the left but what i think contributes to this is the free floating tail wheel , its a bastard to taxi because of it , i changed the wheel after repair and tried a smaller one and a larger one than stock i also bent the strut to change the angle etc , to no avail , what i did do was change rudder to maximum throw on both rates also to try and get some ground steering in .
aside from converting it to a steerable wheel ,
do any of you guys have any suggestions , i never really thought about this in the past when taxiing around , but the thing is relying on the rudder on the ground ( not happy ) .

[smuzz]

I can't help I'm sorry to say mate - I'm finding the same thing with my Parkzone P-47.

It gets a savage swing to the left on the takeoff run and then wants to roll as soon as it breaks the ground. I've increased my rudder throw too, but I've not managed to tame it completely yet. Once in the air at speed though, it's fine and it's easy to land - just a very ugly looking takeoff. I know everyone says to ease the throttle open slowly, but when you've got a runway which has a few undulations in it and you're swinging a large prop, you naturally want to get off the strip and away before it bounces and strikes the ground.

I guess it's going to take a bit more work. Certainly nothing like this on any of the simulated models so Phoenix isn't any help.

[gbanger]

The only way to work around the torque steer is to use a LONG runway with a truck load of rudder and a very slow throttle up, you have to make sure you have a lot of ground speed before attempting to pull away from Terra Firma to control the left roll. The only other option is to install steering and to be honest that is what you really should be doing.

[smuzz]

I already have a steerable tailwheel, but it doesn't eliminate the problem - mainly because most of it happens after the model has left the ground.

I'd love to try it on a flat sealed runway some time where I had plenty of distance to wind it up slowly ... maybe one day.

[gbanger]

The rudder doesnt help that much once youve left the ground, it only controls yaw on throttle up while the tail is on the ground. If the aircraft is rolling excessively when you lift off, your prop is way to big or you are leaving the ground before you have sufficient airspeed, or your ailerons are too bloody small..

[kizza42]

This may sounds counter intuitive, but I added weight to the tail of my Parkzone P-47, The aim was to reduce tendency of nose over during taxi/take off. By doing that, I was more confident in applying smooth but forceful acceleration and allowing proper flying speed to be attained before liftoff. Flying characteristics weren't badly affected and helped reduce landing speed a bit.

[secant0give]

You should try taking off with the Shoestring!! It needs full right rudder shortly after starting the take off run and even then veers and rolls to the left as soon as it gets airbourne. It's a bit of juggel until it gets wound up but one at flying speed it's a beautie!!

It does have a steerable tail wheel so you can't just hold right rudder then open the throttle other wise it will turn hard right for the first meter or so then go straight. You have to let it get a bit of a run then before it starts off to the left apply right rudder.

This is the way I've got my Shoestring set up to help with some of these issues. Because it's a fast flyer. I use high rates for take offs and landings and low rates for when it's fairly shifting along so I've got smooth and precise controll at speed and the larger controll throws needed at low speed. All the rates are activated by the one switch (the aileron rates switch) so I can change all rates quickly and I know just where they are. using the one switch like this I don't have to worry if I have high rates set on elevator and low rates on ailerons or some other unfamiliar combination.

In high rates I have the rudder travel set up so that full rudder is just the correct amount needed for take off. That way when I take off I don't have to think about how much rudder I need to use. I can just jam on full right rudder, then I only have to worry about how much elevator and ailerons I need to get it up and away safely. It usually wants to roll to the left on take off as well.

My other tail draggers don't seem to have this tendancy. I think it's because I run fairly fine piched props on them and they have rather large verticle fins and rudders.

The shoestring however is a different beast it has a small fin and rudder in order to reduce drag and it has a very pitchy prop as well.

Everything is a trade off, those scale warbirds don't have big fins or rudders and if you want to run pitchy props on them, so that thay fly quick, they will Yaw on take off. It's the nature of the beast. But you can make it easier to fly by using rates as I've suggested.

[BenR]

Questions about glues and depron.....

I am looking at starting my extra - my original plan called for foam safe CA for joins, but reading up on here I also see mentions for hot melt glue and for UHU. I would prefer its a lighter build, which from what I have read seems to suggest CA. Is this correct?

Also, for cut depron should I be sealing this stuff prior to flight? Some of the surfaces feel abrasive, and like they will lose pieces just from rubbing. Is it an idea to paint it up to provide some protection against that, even if its a clear coat?

[smuzz]

Questions about glues and depron.....

I am looking at starting my extra - my original plan called for foam safe CA for joins, but reading up on here I also see mentions for hot melt glue and for UHU. I would prefer its a lighter build, which from what I have read seems to suggest CA. Is this correct?

Well, I'll probably be contradicted in saying this ... but anyway - when I built that Blu-Baby out of depron and balsa, I used CA, araldite and UHU-por in different parts. It depends upon the surface area of the joint and it's position in the airframe. In a lightweight foamy like the Extra 300, I'd probably use araldite (sparingly) around the motor mount and foam-safe CA everywhere else. Hot-melt has lots of fans but I find it annoying to apply since it gets stringy and thin strands of the stuff get all over the place. UHU-por is great, but it takes a while to apply and it ends up leaving a rubbery joint which is alright in some places (large surface areas) but perhaps a hassle elsewhere (undercarriage fixings).

Also, for cut depron should I be sealing this stuff prior to flight? Some of the surfaces feel abrasive, and like they will lose pieces just from rubbing. Is it an idea to paint it up to provide some protection against that, even if its a clear coat?

Don't know quite what you mean here. Perhaps some thin light-weight tape over any of the cut surfaces might avoid a lot of fiddling about?

[secant0give]

I like to use Hotmelt glue because it's strong and sets/cools fast but leaves enough time to lign things up. It's non toxic, it's cheap and It also fills gaps very well.


You really don't need to worry about the cut edges they will be fine you can give them the lightest rub with 400 grit emery if you want to smooth them off.

Hot melt glue is lighter than epoxy and if you use it sparingly it doesn't add much weight.
You will need very close fitting joints to use foam safe zap but it is certainly the lighter way to go.

[wingtipper]

yep i dont think you can beast hotmelt glue when it comes to depron .

[gbanger]

It certainly is great stuff... the only thing you have to be careful of is overheating it by leaving your aircraft in the sun on a hot day.
If the hot melt glue temperature approaches 50 degrees it starts to go soft and stretch, if it gets close to 60 degrees if has pretty much the same characteristics as golden syrup, it just doesn't taste as good.
I know from experience that a speedie that is working close to its limit will turn it to mush pretty quickly, just though I would point that out for those of you that haven't experienced that little issue yet.

[Too Drunk to Fly]

Hi guys,
'Been fiddling around with my new Go Pro 3.
When I turn it off, blue light keeps flashing, so I take the battery out (to ensure it's 'off')

Surely this is something simple, just can't seem to find the answer.

[Steven]

It's writing to the card ok?

I have a question of my own too...

I've been paying my Multiplex Gemini a bit of attention this arvo and I have a concern for the landing gear. It's the very old fashion single piece of piano wire style, and it is very soft.
Apart from my concern that the wheels can travel back and forth nearly 10" in total, making tipping while taxiing a definite, even without battery if dropped from a foot the airframe smacks the floor.

Am I being paranoid or should I invest in some solid legs of some kind? (Ok it's probably obvious, but I do over react to anything that is not 350% over engineered).

[wingtipper]

OK GUYS . thinking of a 1.8m 71 inch wingspan 3d plane , as my next build , i currently have an mx2 57 inch 2.3kg plane with a 5050 580 kv NRM prop drive motor which puts out upto 80 amps 2000 watts .
its a ripper .
now with a 70 inch 5kg 3d plane i'll need a 1.60 size motor . there are 3 options i'm considering .

this motor sk3 64/74 192kv on 12s . or the g160 290kv on 12 s .
what do you guys think
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Motor.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Glow_.html

or this ROTOMAX 231 KV on 12s . i'm confused now .

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Motor.html

SO, we have 192 kv , 231 kv or 290 kv , all 2700watts plus . the 231 kv rotomax is over 800 grams of weight , thats 200grams more than the others .
Taking price out of the equation, can i get some tips off you guys referring KV AND POWER RATINGS , AND QUALITY OF MOTORS , AND WHY YOU CHOOSE WHAT YOU DO . IF ANYONE HAS OTHER MOTOR OPTIONS THEY RECOMMEND PLEASE POST HERE AND STATE WHY YOU CHOOSE WHAT YOU DO . CHEERS . i'm after detailed advice .

out of these 3 , i like the 290kv because it is high revving which gives a sense of urgency in the air , but handling 12 s i'm not sure .
the SK3 192 KV i like the write up , they are supposed to be better quality than the 1.6 turnigy 290kv
the rotomax 231kv , looks more robust but sacrifices weight .
please post here which one and why i should use it , recommend others if you wish .

[gbanger]

Personally I'd go with the 192 as well, just remember that as Prop diameter increases , so does current draw (Amperage) so the trick is to get the thrust you need without generating to much current.
I had a Hacker A60 190kv in my Sukhoi 140, that weighed 4.5 kgs, I was running that on 10S with a 20 x 12 prop and it Prop hung at half throttle, you don't get better 3d performance than that!
You will get better bite on the air and acceleration on 10S will a bigger prop than 12S with a smaller prop.
Higher head speed is better for speed but not for 3D. With that said you have to do the maths on every build to get the package that suits your particular application.

[wingtipper]

yep i think i'll go with the sk3 192 KV, looking at youtube vids most are running 10S, A NICE 20X12 OR 21X10E prop might just give it some nice floaty charactoristic , and if i'm not impressed theres always the G160 TO TRY LATER , . i already have the MX2 which hoots along , but trying to get it to hover with high rpm is a challange , i figure lower KV will have better rpm curve control on the stick, and it will be nice to try an SK3 motor , i read they have 3 bearings , a copy of a hacker motor . looking forward to trying a 12 or 13 pitch prop over an 8 or 6 , just to see the flying chartactoristic differences . hope the long motor wont be too long , and the 200+ grams dont sacrifice too much in losses . but 10s will lighten up a little over 12 s as well .
i just hope it wont be boring as its a big drop in rpm .

[wingtipper]

DX8 TELEMETRY ?
Has anybody used this feature with the DX8 8000R RECEIVER AND TELEMETRY MODULE ?
in the box comes a telemetry kit module which plugs into the 8 channel receiver via the binding port , then you have an included piece of looped wire ( temp sensor) and a plug with 2 long wires stripped bare at the ends ( voltage sensor) these can be run on seperate feed or simultainiosly using a supplied Y harness lead . then there is the option of buying a rpm detector if you wish .

to cut a long story short , i dont know how to set these up or if they are accurately reliable . i'll start with the temp sensor - WHAT TEMP RANGE ARE WE TALKING HERE ?
and the voltage lead - whats its v range and use - ie 12s battery pack 50v ? or just bec voltage pack?

any info appreciated ? i think 12s 50v at 100amps would turn this module into a fire .
the instruction manual gives no info on how to set these up .

[gbanger]

Depends on what temp. you monitor.
I know from experience and a lot of reading that the absolute maxumum temp you should not exceed with you battery is 50 degrees C.
Most good quality speedies and motors will cope with temps up to 60 but I personally think once you head upwards of 45 with any of your electronics you are asking for trouble.
I check my Funfighter with a lazer temp gun everytime I land and everything is always in the low 50s... I don't like that!
Cant help you with the DX8 stuff... didn't you recieve some set up literature with the TX?

[wingtipper]

thanks for the reply Gary , its good to know these temp limits on batteries ,
the dx8 setup instructions are simple , and just suggest receiver voltage readings and battery temps , it does say you can wrap the wires around the head of an IC engine though if you wish . but main battery supply drop off per cell it does not mention , the rest to me would be assumptions with the DX8 . Bec voltage i could set up yes , rpm i could do if i had the optional reader, and battery temp i could probably do also .
but i would really like a hey your batteries are getting low alarm , its time to land , or your motor is overheating better back off , i'm not sure wether the DX8 has these features .

[Raptorfly]

Hi Frank

I have a Dx8

- WHAT TEMP RANGE ARE WE TALKING HERE ?
The sensor just measures what ever you stick it to.. Not sure about the maximum but it works. I normally attach it to the esc or lipo. You can sit it behind a motor.

and the voltage lead - whats its v range and use - ie 12s battery pack 50v ? or just bec voltage pack?
I used it on 6S it measures the total lipo voltage. I don't think the module will draw amps so I'm sure it will measure on 12S.

[wingtipper]

excellent George , that's just what i wanted to hear . i can get a switch with BEC voltage display and audible alarm on it i think if the bec voltage drops , so thats good , with the module , i would like to set that up to measure voltage drop under load of the main batteries , that will warn me when the battery is dropping off too far , nearing time to lands , and with the temp i was thinking main battery temp or esc . sounds like i can do all of this with the dx8 . cheers , might even buy the rpm sensor as well , as that could come in handy for prop size .
i only have jasons FRSKY setup to compare it too , and i think he knows when he's batteries are running down or he's over pushing the amps or something of that sort . but i just want to make use of what i have with the DX8 , FOR THE FUN FACTOR AND HOPEFULLY SAFETY IMPROVEMENTS IN FLIGHT. CHEERS .

[secant0give]

My FRsky telemetry is set up to measure the pack voltage. When it drops below a certain threshold then it gives an alarm if it drops below a second even lower threshold then it gives an urgent alarm.

it's great once you get used to it because the voltage can go low for a couple of reasons one the lipos are getting flat or two I'm pulling too much current. At the 10 second burst rate the pack voltage certainly does get pulled down, even with fresh lipos. because the batteries won't take that for too long it's handy to have an alarm to let you know your right on the edge as you can only safely stay there for just a little while.

As for the motor choice, you might get better efficiency going for the lower KV and a bigger prop but with more revs comes more watts and less weight, more watts & less weight means a much happier thrust to weight ratio. I allways use lower pitch props that will give more bite than a steeply pitched one. Normally I'm using a 19X6 prop and that gives AWSOME acceleration. I use modified G160s in my Yaks and Have no trouble hovering them, harriering them, or flying high alfa Knife edge, when the nut behind the sticks does his bit. They take to the air in about 15 ft if I punish the tail wheel and will go vertical from there right up to 399ft

[wingtipper]

Thanks for the info Jason , i know your planes setups ,, one of them is on my MX2 , and i'm more than impressed with it . infact i toned it down a little from the 700kv LOL . THE TRADE OFF I KNOW , BUT US AS MODELLERS HAVE TO TRY A LITTLE DIFFERENT , SOMETIMES . heres a VID I finally found on youtube . they are hard to come across in this setup .
but here it is , and its made my mind up
190KV ON 12S SEBART 140E . I'LL HAVE TO GET A FEW TIPS OFF YOU REGARDING , alarm settings , there is also talk of thse motors overdriving "E" props , and suggestions of using APC SPORT PROPS INSTEAD .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2czWd0FcW8&feature=endscreen&NR=1