[Flying fisho]

Looks like it would have foot the bill, except as per my earlier post, bought a genuine parkzone motor from Ult Hobs & Trojan is rearing to go. Dont know about Bob, might definitely be a goer for him.

[smuzz]

Yes - sorry Wayne, did forget that. Never mind, you'll be clear for takeoff tomorrow then - see you there

[redbaron]

Can anyone assist me in the flap and elevator settings on the DX6i for the Skylark. I know its a bit of a trail and error thing but would like some basic settings to get me started.. Cheers

[smuzz]

OK Manfred, maybe I can help - but firstly, what's a Skylark? ...
Also, are you just looking to mix in a little (down) elevator on flaps deployment, or is it something more elaborate you're after?

[popeyepete]

RX Switch - Safety Isolation between Pitts and runway.

As my planes are getting bigger, it's becoming cumbersome and awkward carrying the plane back to the pitts with it still powered on. Already had one close incident where my hanging TX knocked on my body moving the throttle stick and nearly slicing my nose off with the spinning prop.

Are these switches simply inserted between the lead from the ESC to the RX??
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Blank.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...witch.html

Or is there a simpler way to handle this???

[secant0give]

I never have my TX hanging from a neck strap while I'm walking carying a plane to or from the flight line. That's asking for trouble

I allways cary my TX from the carry handel on the top with the controll sticks facing out so I can't bump the throttle stick.

Even better still don't plug your pack in untill your at the flight line. This is what I do with bigger models. Some of the bigger ESCs come with switches to arm them. I have a couple of these as well


You could use a switch to turn off your RX that should work OK. I guess it would just go between your throttle port on the RX and the throttle plug on the ESC. Looks like the second one could be the go

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...witch.html

[Cessna]

Hi all, I have the HobbyKing Durafly Cessna 310 its a twin motor plane, the only thing that has worried me is the motors do not start up together and when shutting down they are not in sync either, I read somewhere you have to reset ESC I thought I knew how but it hasn't worked..Any ideas? Thanks!

[popeyepete]

I never have my TX hanging from a neck strap while I'm walking carying a plane to or from the flight line. That's asking for trouble

I allways cary my TX from the carry handel on the top with the controll sticks facing out so I can't bump the throttle stick.

Even better still don't plug your pack in untill your at the flight line. This is what I do with bigger models. Some of the bigger ESCs come with switches to arm them. I have a couple of these as well


You could use a switch to turn off your RX that should work OK. I guess it would just go between your throttle port on the RX and the throttle plug on the ESC. Looks like the second one could be the go

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...witch.html

Thanks Jason, I did learn from that last experience now to always point the prop away from me and carry the TX. Once bitten twice shy!

If i were to intall a separate BEC would the following schematic be correct?

BEC Set-up.pdf Size: 64.87 KB  Downloads: 223

Also with the control cable from the ESC (which the curent ESC i have has built in BEC) dissconnect the Red wire as to not feed two power supplies into the RX. Thus leaving the Signal & Ground wire in place? Or do i have to remove the Ground aswell?

[Kedumba]

Not sure if this is the thing that your after, but I listen to a podcast called "All Things That Fly" which is a podcast on all manner of RC Planes and flight. Yes it is very american however the informaiton is usually international.

On show number 211 they talk about kill and arming switches and the website provides some links which may or may not be useful. They talk about the same thing that you mention, about how to set up a plane but not actually Arm it until your on the flight line and ready to go. Some suggesitons from memory (without listening to the whole show again) include putting an extra deans or similar plug wired up in the battery line similar to this Arming Switch. This shouldn't be too hard to duplicate. The Loop at the top of the picture would be the Arming switch and wouldn't be put into place until you were ready to fly.

Hope this helps some
Mick

[kizza42]

Peter, in your situation, there is no advantage adding another BEC just to have a switch.

Simply bind your aircraft with the correct fail safes set (0 Throttle) then put a switch in between the ESC and the Rx. I used that system on my old Hotliner and it always worked.

[Raptorfly]

Hi all, I have the HobbyKing Durafly Cessna 310 its a twin motor plane, the only thing that has worried me is the motors do not start up together and when shutting down they are not in sync either, I read somewhere you have to reset ESC I thought I knew how but it hasn't worked..Any ideas? Thanks!

Oh I love multi motor planes and this Durafly looks great.
Try This to set you throttle range. Turn on your TX first push the Throttle all the way full. Connect your Battery on the plane. As soon as you hear the first beeb, pull the Throttle on your TX back to 0. Test your motors now and they should be in sync. If not then repeat. If you let the beeb go on for a second or third you will start programming the ESC. ect. Dont worry. Just disconnect and repeat for 1 beeb again. If it still a problem, bring it to the field and we can look at it.

[popeyepete]

Thanks guys, was thinking this was the norm for large scale, but your right Kieran, KISS - keep it simple stupid!

[Claudius]

Not sure if this is the thing that your after, but I listen to a podcast called "All Things That Fly" which is a podcast on all manner of RC Planes and flight. Yes it is very american however the informaiton is usually international.

I was going to post a thread about this very podcast! I've been listening to it on the walk to work recently (working up from the first episodes, so I'm still in the 40's; don't know if the format and people are still the same), and those guys sound like they get up to a lot of fun flying.

Definitely worth checking out if you enjoy a podcast or two...

[Cessna]

Thanks Raptorfly, I will try this.

[Cessna]

The reset worked! Thanks :-))

[samste]

Kieran, with rgards to the cog of your multiplex funjet.

With lipo in and holding at cog does your nose drop heavy, lightly, balanced.

As i have thrown together my Hobbyking Version and at moment i have it lightly nose heavy.

Ready To Maiden with Edf Installed rather than Pusher Prop but should have enough power i hope on 3s or need be 4s capable.

Steve

[kizza42]

They are scaled different so my measurements wont work too well. The straight wing is quite CoG sensitive, too far back gets real messy so I would definitely err on the side of caution. and set up where they say then sneak it back 5mm at a time if you have to hold up elevator too much.

[samste]

So do you Rekon i should make it have the cog level with no nose tip down then move lipo a bit till i get some nose down ?


Better still just get Kizza to Maiden

Steve

[kizza42]

go 5mm forward from holding level at cg point

[wingtipper]

ok guys . help me out here . i need to know battery basics . . jason suggested 6 cell batteries for my KATANA S . OR 5 CELL .
WITH ABOUT 3000 OR 2600 mah . ok i dont know how he worked that one out .
looking at hobbyking there are thousands of batteries . what does 20C OR 35C OR 40C mean ????
STRRRUUUUGLING !!!!!!!!

[secant0give]

The C number is the discharge rate. multiply this by the capacity (mAh) and you have the maximum amps you can draw from the pack.

With the motor/prop combination your going to use, You will probably pull about 80-85A at full throttle so if you have a 3000 30C pack that will provide 90A (3000 X 30 / 1000) but you won't be flying it full peg all the time so a 20-30 C pack will do the job nicely it will give you 60A continuous and 90A for a burst of about 10 seconds. believe me that will be heaps !! Remember the higher the C rating the heavier the packs will be and the dearer they will be as well

These are the ones I use in my edge 540 and that flies very nicely on them, with authority. I only use full peg to go vertical. It will hover on about 1/2 throttle.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...S_Wh_.html

If you wanted to go 5S then you could use these (below) they would be a little lighter would provide the same current but a little less voltage. Slightly less Watts but still plenty of power to fly that machine !!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._Pack.html

If you go 2450 mAh then you want to go for a 30-40C

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

Or if you want to go even lighter then 2200 mah but you will need 30-40C
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

The compromise is weight verses flight time.
light weight means better 3D performance ie better acceleration nicer stall and easier/faster recovery when bad shit happens............... and it will

Longer flight time means heavier packs but if you need that weight to make it balance correctly then you may as well have it in battery than in ballast.

[wingtipper]

well explained jason . i was doing some research and thinking 2450 mah x 30C , whats the difference between that , and 3000mah x 20C .

---

ACTUALLY THIS ONE I WAS LOOKING AT .
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=15374

would this be a little better than the 3000mah X 20c . I'M just worried i might cook a little too hot with the 3000mah x 20c , being less experienced on the throttle .

[gbanger]

Frank
The higher mAh rating doesn't give you more power it just gives you more fuel in the tank, so to speak. (Increasing your Mah is just like putting in a bigger fuel tank) then you can stay in the air longer
If you have your prop,motor, ESC and battery package correct you will never cook anything. It is only overloading that will fry things. If you need help checking a setup just ask, heaps of guys have test gear with them at the field all the time, provided you have the same battery connecters, its as simply as plugging in to check your current draw

[wingtipper]

Frank
The higher mAh rating doesn't give you more power it just gives you more fuel in the tank, so to speak. (Increasing your Mah is just like putting in a bigger fuel tank) then you can stay in the air longer
If you have your prop,motor, ESC and battery package correct you will never cook anything. It is only overloading that will fry things. If you need help checking a setup just ask, heaps of guys have test gear with them at the field all the time, provided you have the same battery connecters, its as simply as plugging in to check your current draw

AHAAAAH !!! ok . thanks for that . in that case the 3000 mah is better ! ill get those . thanks garry the mechanical cogs in my brain can understand that , in laymens terms .

[secant0give]

Yes Gazz is right the more mAh the more capacity the pack has, this is similar to having a bigger fuel tank, but it also governs the max power you can draw at any one time. because to find your max current draw you multiply this number by the C rating.
Gazz is also spot on in saying that if you have everything correctly set up you can't burn it out by having a bigger battery. The motor will only draw excess current if it's over propped, To say that a different way you can't burn out the motor unless you over load it, it will only draw the current it needs regardless of what is available. As Gazz also suggests Checking your current draw is an essential thing to do especially if your setting things up to get the max performance from them.

Having said that, this is my philosophy on setting up power systems for my aerobatic models. I think you've got to look seriously at the all up weight of the model and the C of G to take things into account properly. What I want is the motor, ESC and batterys to provide all of the balance weight. I use a big motor and I can alter it's load by changing props size. I use a Lipo pack that will let me fly for about 5mins and still have a little reserve this is plenty long enough to concentrate if you doing aerobatics. 5 mins is plenty!! I want the lightest possible motor/battery combination compared to it's power output. That is to say I'm looking for the "power system" with the best power to weight ratio. I have a 10 second burst rating on my batteries and on my ESC and I will prop my motor to make good use of this. There are times when you want that extra grunt to fly vertical or accelerate back to flying speed out of a stall or spin or unexpected bad situation that happens close to the ground ................and it will happen!!
I do not fly on full throttle all the time, but I do get the most out of my set up.
I use a light wooden prop with a big diameter and a small pitch like a 15x6 or 15X5. A light prop will spool up fast and the slow pitch will give the model max acceleration. This is handy for 3D flying and aerobatics close to the ground.
I don't go for max speed but I do want the best acceleration, when I move the throttle stick forward I want the model to jump!! This is why I worry about the all up weight 'cause it's easier to accelerate a light model than a heavier one. I want it to accelerate to flying speed and flying speed will be lower if the all up weight is lighter.

Those 2600 6S 20C lipos will certainly do the job !!

[~KevJ~]

Hey Gaz, when possible could you maybe throw up a couple of pics of that pc9 battery mod mate.. i know ive looked at it b4 but since i have the pc9 apart i may as well sort that out once and for all so i can stop getting angry at it everytime i want to fly it..

[gbanger]

Im in the middle of packing to move house mate, but I will try to get you a few pics. You are more than welcome to drop by my place and have a look if you like.
Gazz

[~KevJ~]

yeah np mate no rush

[wingtipper]

ok guys . i have the katana with a 5055 outrunner 700kv motor 1500W, CONTINUAL 75AMP CURRENT RATING . running 6s 3000mah , battery pack , 13 x6 lightwood prop . 85 AMP ESC . the model fully loaded weighs 2.6kg (5.7lb)

therefore formula at 3.3 v per cell =19.8v x 75 =1485 watts /5.7LB = 260 WATTS per pound !!!
i'm using a 13x6 lightwood prop.
the motor suggests 12x6 to 12x12 . the esc has a max loading burst of 100amps .

is there anything wrong / or out of spec here .

upon testing today with a fully charged 6s 3000 x20c battery , at 50% continual throttle , the esc started limiting current at 2min 30sec . and rpm became erratic . ESC WAS ABOUT 70 DEGREES C .
BATTERY WAS WARM , AND MOTOR WAS WARM TO HOT .
tested battery it was down to 3.92 volts per cell .
charged battery again
this time 35% throttle tied up to post , for 3 minutes . then 2x 10 second 3/4 throttle bursts, then at 4 minutes a 10 second full throttle burst , then back to 35% throttle till 5 minutes and 2x 3/4 throttle bursts . at 5 min 30 sec , tried full throttle and rpm did not increase much back to 30% throttle till 6 min 30 second mark still flyable at 30% throttle . i cut out there .
battery , motor and esc were all on the warm to hot . tested battery each cell was 3.8 volts . i'm aware the prop will unload a lot in the air compared to a static test . so all should be good .

does this make sense to anyone . with the throttle fully open with a 13x8 prop . this model pulled 100 amps . it now has a 13 x6 on it , and i fear it will over heat given a bit of high rpm flying .
however full throttle on this plane wouldnt be for the faint hearted . it will hover at 1/2 throttle .

this seems to be somewhere in the ball park .
question , what if i wanted to run a 1400kv motor for this plane , or a 280 kv motor, or an 8s battery . here lies my confusion !!!!!!

any input welcome .

ok my question really relates to amps . if i ran a 5s on this set up i would have 217watts/lb a 6s, 260watts/lb . if i had an 8s , what would happen ?

[gbanger]

If that is my old Katana then I would suggest that the motor is to small. I was running 6S 5000 mAh 20C with a Hacker A50-14S at 425 Kv it would come down after 7 to 8 minutes with a warm to hot motor but both battery and ESC were hardly warm. My ESC was a Dualsky 80amp and full throttle with a 16 x 8 prop was just over 80 amps (static), seeing that I spent most of the flights at 50 to 70% throttle it was never an issue and there was certainly plenty of power there.
If you want to run 6S with a prop that big you are going to have to come down to somwhere around 400 to 500kv max.
Looks to me like you are just a little under engined my friend.