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Build log: The Blu-Baby
#1

JohnP was I think, the first in our club to discover the Blu-Baby Trainer (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=681556).

My instructor says that I should have another plane in the hangar to fly solo with and I think the Blu-Baby might be the ticket. John's example looked good to me and I thought I might get one together. I haven't worked with depron before so it seemed like an opportunity to put other things aside and get started.

The RCGroups Blu-Baby thread is over a thousand pages long, so I read a few of them and made a couple of decisions ...
- Will build the 42" version because it suits a spare powertrain I already have, and the extra size might help me keep it sighted.
- Also, must build the aileron version because I think I'd be lost without ailerons.

Printed out the plan sheets and stuck them all together. The first task was cutting the so-called monobloc. This is normally made from pink/blue foam or even laminates of depron up to the required thickness. I had a large block of balsa lying around unused and it was about the right thickness, so used it instead. Having access to a band-saw made this job easy, otherwise it would have been difficult to cut by hand and keep square.

   

While the band-saw was handy, cut a bunch of styrofoam semi ribs for the wings. These are nice and wide and will go from the leading edge back to the wooden spar. Made from off-cuts of foam packing.

   

Now cut all the depron parts (well, most of them anyway) from 6mm depron. This is easy as long as the scalpel blade is very sharp and gives a satisfying but false sense of significant progress, compared to building a model up from balsa.

   

OK, that's it for one session - need to have a couple of beers and think about options before lurching forward.
OK, last post work done over a week ago, I'm just catching up with my progress here.

The wing was next to receive treatment. The original version called for a rolled, undercambered depron structure but reading through the posts indicates that it tended to flex too much. An alternative was a Kline-Fogelman aerofoil but I decided to go for the built-up sport wing just for fun. Started off with some balsa leading edge stock, chamfered the depron to butt against it and stuck the semi-ribs on. I was using UHU-Por as the glue because I hadn't tried it before and it's apparently "the go" for depron.

       

Next was to get the timber spars in place, would have used some CF box-section instead if I'd had some at hand - never mind, wood would do! Some little recessed boxes in the undersides of the wings for the aileron servos to come later and some depron semi-ribs between the spar and the trailing edge. The aerofoil is a flat-bottomed section, but I simply sketched it out by hand - it doesn't represent any properly designed NACA or other design.

   

The upper surfaces were then covered with 2mm depron, after having ensured some pieces of cotton were placed inside the wing so that I could pull the servo leads and extensions through later. The next photograph shows the wing root with the spruce spar and guide ready for the two ply dihedral braces to be glued in.

   

I attended to aileron hinges before cladding the top surface of the wing - this was done by gluing hinges to the top the 6mm depron wing undersurface and then sandwiching them beneath the 2mm top surface. This saves having to cut slots afterwards and guarantees that they're solidly glued in place.

   

A slight departure from the plan was next (yes, I'll take full responsibility and I know I might regret it). The cavity for the battery-bay in the underside of the mono-block was too small for the 2200 mAh batteries I want to go in there (so I don't have to buy another battery size variation). I extended the size of the bay towards the front. This meant that the standard undercarriage mounting position was now cut away though. It would be a good idea to keep the undercarriage legs in the same position, so some holes were bored into the block above the battery-bay and grooves cut into the block so that legs could be inserted from each side and set into the grooves with a forward rake.

       

Some extra grunting and farting later, we have bent undercarriage legs in the correct position and once set with expoxy they should be strong enough to deal with my clumsy landings.

   

Right now, it's beer-o'clock again so more to come later ...

Steve Murray
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#2

Very Clever Steve, Good job, very Nice Start to The build Looking good so Far.

I too Hoping To Start My Scratch Build That i was going to get up and running Prior to Xmas with the help of Kieran.
I may End Up posting a thread in weeks to come for all to comment on how to tackle it, as it is very far for rc Flying and aerodynamic.

Steve Smile

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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#3

Thanks for the encouragement Steve - much appreciated Smile

I've got to admit, working with depron ain't that bad! Here's the fin and rudder assembly made from sandwiching two layers of 3mm depron together with the paper hinges in between. Gives a satisfactory result. I've used foam-safe CA to do this, pushing them together hard against a flat surface to prevent warping.
I'm also pleased with the way that depron handles a light sanding - I've been applying some 80 grit paper on the fin and rudder to round off the edges and it's quick and easy.

   

Steve Murray
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#4

Good Job Steve!!!!!

Certainly putting in a lot of thinking into this project.

Got to admire guys like you who take the plunge, make some decisions that may not agree with the original instructions, and then go for a cold beer and continue building!!

Hope it all turns our well for you!!

Victor

Smile
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#5

Looking good Steve, I am very interested in seeing how it handles with that wing, I think you said it was a ClarkeY. When do u reckon you will have the first flight?

KevB
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#6

Cheers Vic and Kev - much appreciated.

Kev, the aerofoil is more of a thin Aquilla (http://www.gliders.dk/aquilla.htm) because I was too lazy to set up a good jig to make a proper wing and the Aquilla was easy to build on a flat surface. The guy who did the write-up on the page I've referenced has an entertaining writing style - he doesn't much like this aerofoil for gliders, but he does mention it being used on trainers. I don't know how it will handle to be honest, but I might have to program in some aileron differential and be ready to deal with a little bit of adverse yaw I guess.

I was hoping to be making the maiden flight this weekend ... but it's already Saturday afternoon :P I'm going to get back into it now, so I'll let you know if there's any chance of it being ready for tomorrow.

Steve Murray
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#7

Just a tip for anyone using depron.
UHU Por adhesive is the recommend glue to use but this is not
always readily available and I think cost about $9 a tube when it is.
I have found that UHU Creativ(correct spelling) is just as good and only $5 a tube.
Available from Spotlight stores and Eckersley Art Supplies.
Just be careful that you get the yellow/green colored tube as there is also a yellow/brown coloured tube which is used for wood etc.

Paul

Jet Teng L39(Breitling)
Scratchbuilt F14 Tomcat(Pukin Dogs)
Vector X
Eflite F86 Sabre(Taz Tiger)
Qantas Airbus A380(Nancy-Bird Walton)
Boeing 737-800
ProEDF F16
Falcon 120(Gas Turbine)
Fly Fly F100 Super Sabre
Pheonix Tiger 6
VQ Models P61 Night Fighter
CY Models FW190

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#8

Thanks for the tip Paul. Yeh, "Aussie Aeroworks" charge $12 a tube, and "Monaro Models and Hobbies" $13.95 which is rich. "Depron Foam UK" sell it for £2.20 which at the current exchange-rate makes it much cheaper, even with shipping - however, I'm going to give the Creativ stuff you're plugging a go next time instead.

Por seems alright, but it sets with a flexible/rubbery finish which makes sanding it difficult. I've used Por, foam-safe CA and epoxy in various places on this build and if I could afford to do everything with foam-safe CA then I probably would - it's light, dries more rapidly than the others even without kicker and is invisible. The only thing it doesn't do is fill in gaps, the surfaces have to be a perfect fit.

All interesting stuff though ...
Some more progress made, in spite of the heat. The next couple of photographs show the pairs of 3mm sheets glued together sandwiching the hinges to make the fin and rudder. The tailplane and elevator were completed the same way.

               

Fin and rudder, and tailplane and elevator. The tailplane has a strip of fibre tape across the underside to prevent it flexing.

   

The wing is pretty much complete, just needs painting, then servos and linkages installed. A couple of strips of fibre tape across the underside of the complete span for good measure.

   

The fuselage is under way - the monobloc is in place between the fuselage sides, and the motor mount has been installed. Tunnels have been drilled through the monobloc for wiring ... but that's about it. Some fuselage bulkheads need to come next, then the aft end of the fuselage joined. After that ... more fiddly bits.

   

Steve Murray
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#9

Personally I can see no difference between using
UHU Por or UHU Creativ. Both of them take exactly the same amount of time to dry
and both have that rubbery feeling when you are sanding.
Paul

Jet Teng L39(Breitling)
Scratchbuilt F14 Tomcat(Pukin Dogs)
Vector X
Eflite F86 Sabre(Taz Tiger)
Qantas Airbus A380(Nancy-Bird Walton)
Boeing 737-800
ProEDF F16
Falcon 120(Gas Turbine)
Fly Fly F100 Super Sabre
Pheonix Tiger 6
VQ Models P61 Night Fighter
CY Models FW190

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#10

Nice one Steve

Ive found hot melt glue to be quite usefull on depron.
I'll have to give the UHU a go ones day and see what it's likeSmile


Cheers

Jason

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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#11

Cheers Jason - I did have a hot-melt glue gun and some sticks around here somewhere ... but my workshop is such a mess I can't find them. The UHU Creativ that Paul refers to is definitely worth trying, I'm going to use that next time and see how it goes.

Haven't made too much visible progress over the past couple of days ...

I did make another departure from the plan though. It shows a small lip in the fuselage at the trailing edge of the wing root (or the trailing end of the wing saddle). This uninspiring photo shows it:

   

Obviously, the first time a wingtip touches the ground, the wings are going to move back against the rubber bands holding them in place and rip those little pointy bits right off. I decided to do that now with the scalpel, instead of waiting and have it happen down at the field.

The next set of tasks were installing some fuselage bulkheads, the rudder and elevator servos, and the control-rods. I recycled control-rods from a J-3 Cub which no longer rests in the hangar - these already had Z-bends and clevises in place. Their pre-determined length told me where the servos were going to go, so in they went. The servo mount is 10mm balsa and the servos are glued in (they were also recycled).

A couple of crappy photos follow:

       

It's all pretty standard and uninteresting - some depron doublers were placed both inside and outside the fuselage to widen the wing saddle. If I'd placed all them inside, it would reduce space inside the narrow fuselage and it would be hard to reach in and get at things like bind-plugs later on. The control-rods were easy to install, just take the clevises off, and push each rod so that they make their own holes in the fuselage sides and the bulkheads. The bulkheads will also stop any tendency for the control-rods to flex too, not that I think there will be large loads present anyway.

Next, there are more fiddly bits ... should get more of them done on Thursday night so that painting can happen on Friday ... maybe.

Steve Murray
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#12

Blu-Baby has been sleeping on the dining room table because I've been procrastinating and we didn't expect to get to the field this weekend. However, yesterday afternoon we were given the "All clear" for today, so there was a mad rush last night to get the machine airworthy.

Had a bit to do, but it was mainly fiddly stuff - install aileron servos plus horns and linkages (standard - nothing interesting to report), horns for rudder and elevator (same thing again), some velcro to be glued in for battery retention, make up some motor extension wires (hate soldering ...), drill holes and glue in some dowels in the fuselage for the wing-retaining rubber bands, .... have another beer .... you get the picture. Made up some water-slide decals for the registration markings - these didn't adhere very well to the raw depron surface unfortunately - perhaps they'd have been happier on painted depron as I think the raw surface was a bit too porous, but I wasn't in a mood to worry too much about that. Fit the motor, thread wires through little tunnels in the monobloc (that never goes as smoothly as it should), decide where to stick the receiver (yeh, thanks, I've heard the obvious suggestions before) and get the transmitter out to check servo centring and twist all the clevises as required.

It was a little after 2:30am when I realised I still didn't have any wheels on the thing. I wanted to avoid large clunky collars with grub screws, so I drilled out some rings of nylon which I thought might make a nice retainer, especially with an adhesive of some sort and got that little matter completed (or so I thought).

Put everything together and check out the CoG - supposed to be 3.44" from the leading edge at the centre axis of the fuselage. OK, that's 3.44*2.54 = 8.7 cm in our money. It was practically right on - or as much as I could see at this time of the morning.

       

The power train isn't remarkable - actually, it's all left-overs from previous adventures:
Motor: EMax BL2215/20 (http://www.giantcod.co.uk/epower-221520-...p-288.html)
Propeller: 8 x 6
ESC: RCSmart 30Amp
Battery: Turnigy 2200 mAh, 3S 20C

Running this combination up with the Himark static thrust meter and the Eflite Wattmeter shows a very modest current draw of 10A for hopefully long flights, with a 500g thrust at 100W.

   

Placing the ready-to-fly complete plane nose-down on the digital scales showed 930g .... Hmm, that gives us only a little over 50W per 500g - don't like that much. It might actually be flyable, but would be better if it was about 80W per 500g as a trainer. Replaced the prop at the field later with a 9 x 6 (from a Parkzone P-51D BL) and the Wattmeter shows just under 200W - roughly doubled the power through to the motor with an extra inch on the prop diameter ... size does matter then?

At this stage, enough was enough - anything else would have to be sorted out at the field prior to the maiden. These two next photographs conclude the build log - thanks for reading and thanks to those of you who have offered advice and encouragement!

       

Steve Murray
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#13

Aw man, you beat me! I was gonna use that registration on a project, will have to change it to vh-omg now Wink
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#14

Sorry K - like I was saying on the weekend, when I told "The Missus" what I'd chosen for the registration she was appalled and confirmed her view that I was crude and uncultured .... love it Smile

Steve Murray
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