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Please Help with Battery Choice for T-28 Trojan
#1
Question 

Hi, I am getting my T-28 Trojan ready for flight. The 2x Batteries which are 18 MOnths old and never used have gone puffy and I think I should replace them before getting the bird in the sky.

Currently are 2x Zippy 2200 3Cell 25 Series with an adaptor cable to convert to fit the plug in the Trojan. Pics attached.

1st advice from un named hobby shop was just to purchase one or 2 of their last batteries which both had different connectors and they didn't comment about how I would adapt / convert them so not sure that was practical advice?

I have checked online and found other Zippy batteries with different specs. Such as ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 40C
ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 2S1P 20C
ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 4S1P 40C

I really appreciate any of your time in giving me some tips to make sure I get the right power for the plane. It is the only one I have at the moment with the larger battery. When I am confident with the Trojan I will then start looking at some additional Planes. Smile

Thanks in advance.
           
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#2

Ask the question to 5 different people & get 5 different answers. Don't get talked into a high C rating to deliver more power than necessary, will shorten the life of the battery. Before I souped up my Parkzone Trojan I was using 30-40c 2200mAh Turnigy batteries. 25-30c would have done the trick. You mentioned "ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 4S1P 40C", that is a 4cell battery, will burn out your speedy & possibly motor. Cross off your list.
These 2 battery packs are currently in stock (one of the most important features) and the first one already has EC3 discharge leads and the second has XT60's to suit your current adapters.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ouse_.html

I have a preference to 3.5mm bullet connectors, 4mm bullets for larger batteries & EC5's on my big 4s5000 batteries. and change the connectors on speedies & batteries to suit when I get a new plane, speedie or battery accordingly. I don't use adapters at all.
Horses for courses, there is no wrong solution.
PS. All questions are welcomed but we prefer not to start a new thread for every question. We already have a thread for Q & A.
http://forum.rcflyingclub.com/showthread.php?tid=85&highlight=hands+alike
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#3

I have just started flying my trojan the past 3 weeks, I have been using Zippy 2200mAh 25C. Ok I am still new at this so jump in if I got all this wrong... I need to know too. Smile

What I understand is the 25C is the max the battery can supply in a burst (in theory) ie 25 x 2.2Ah = 55A right? The ESC parkzone put in the trojan is 30A, set up for the motor, so therefore provided the battery max draw is > ESC it should be sufficient right?? If thats so, even a 20C (20 x 2.2 =44A), should work.

As battery performance will deteriorate over time, and that 'C' rating will decline, it makes sense to have a bit of extra allowance so a slightly higher 'C', like FlyingFisho suggests 25-30C is better, but lots higher is probably a waste. right?
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#4

Lots higher will actually reduce the life of the battery. A little bit extra not too bad. I will leave it up to the gurus to pass on the intricacies.
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#5

Oh I also changed the connector on the trojan to XT60, I just figure I may as well standardise on a single connector type across all planes and batteries I get.
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#6

(29-12-2014, 07:51 PM)robbo Wrote:  What I understand is the 25C is the max the battery can supply in a burst (in theory) ie 25 x 2.2Ah = 55A right?

Unfortunately, there are no applicable measurement standards, which makes the C-ratings printed on labels practically meaningless. Every manufacturer is free to apply their own criteria, and they do so, liberally. At best, the label C-rating serves as an indication of how the manufacturer would like their various product lines to be stack-ranked against each other ("40C has got to be better than 35C, surely?!?").

Let's say we call the "true" C-rating that which can be delivered from full to empty (20% remaining) without sustaining damage in the process. Virtually all new lipo cells have true ratings ranging from 20C to 25C. Exceptional cells might creep up toward 27C, 28C, or even 30C, but it's vanishingly rare.

Lithium polymer chemistry is capable of dissipating around 6 watts per amp-hour of capacity, as heat, before internal temperature rises beyond the "venting" threshold where the cell is visibly puffed up. Obviously, ambient temperature and the amount of colling air flowing around the cell also play a part, but everything else being equal the magic formula is Pmax=6W/1aH.

For a 2200mAh cell, it thus follows that 13.2 watts is the maximum safe power dissipation. P=IV, V=IR, so we can express power in terms of current and resistance as P=I(IR), or rather P=I^2R. In other words, the greater the internal resistance, the less current a cell can take without damage. Internal resistance is therefore the true measure of quality and performance.

It takes a somewhat fancy charger (iCharger line, Powerlab) or a dedicated device to measure cell internal resistance with any significant level of accuracy. Once the resistance is known, it becomes simple to calculate the "true" C-rating using the formulas above.

All labels which read "35C" or more are highly questionable, since nothing of the sort exists yet. The manufacturer first established what number they wanted to print on the label in order to keep up with their competitors, and then worked backwards to establish arbitrary test standards which justify the number. Note that the actual test procedures are _never_ published. We are supposed to take it on faith that this one is a "65C" battery, or even higher, even though the currents involved would destroy the cell within one or two such iterations, or melt the copper wires which are meant to be delivering "65C".

(29-12-2014, 07:51 PM)robbo Wrote:  As battery performance will deteriorate over time, and that 'C' rating will decline...

Yes. To some extent that degradation is inevitable, although keeping cells fully charged hastens the process. Internal resistance increases at an exponential rate once the cell voltage is over 4.0V, which is why it pays to be dilligent about "storage" charging after a day's flying rather than keeping lipos full during the week.

It doesn't matter so much with a Trojan since it sucks relatively low current. Even a drop in "true C" from 25C to 20C over say a year will not be felt since the motor pulls like 10C tops.

It matters much more in high-current applications such as pylon racers and 3D helis. A powerful helicopter can easily pull 20C sustained, and it starts making more sense to invest in better batteries (Pulse, Gens Ace, Thunder Power...). Of course, they must not be kept fully charged, or their performance will quickly come back down to "true" ~20C, whatever marketing fantasy might be printed on the label.

Incidentally, there's no such thing as a C-rating which is too high. The motor+ESC combo is doing the pulling - there is no pushing on the battery's part. If it existed (which it doesn't!), it would be entirely safe to put a "65C" (true) pack in a Trojan.

(29-12-2014, 08:51 PM)robbo Wrote:  Oh I also changed the connector on the trojan to XT60, I just figure I may as well standardise on a single connector type across all planes and batteries I get.

Yep, connector standardisation is a good idea. It saves weight, decreases resistance and complexity, and thereby lessens the chances of something going wrong while one is absent-mindedly plugging stuff in while yacking with others down at the field.

Besides, soldering is fun, and very difficult to avoid in this hobby Smile
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#7

Thanks Andre, I bow to your knowledge and in my defence about "too high" comment, was not from my own research, just repeating what has been said to me from an undisclosed source Leet .
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#8

It's all good Wayne. We're all here to learn Smile

I think the "too high" thing is a common misconception. One analogy is a plugpack 240V USB charger, of the sort used by many phones and tablets - there's no such thing as a "too powerful" USB charger.

For example, the iPhone pack sold by Apple is a 1A unit. iPads ship with a 2A charger which can also be safely used with an iPhone, but the reverse is not true - accidentally using the 1A charger with an iPad is not a good idea, since the device pulls more current than the rated maximum of the power source.

As you said earlier, swapping to a higher voltage (4S instead of 3S) might fry the ESC or motor, but if we stick to 3S in the Trojan's case, there's no electrical problem with a high C-rating lipo. They are usually a little heavier though.
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#9

Thanks all, I will go with the Turnigy one and have a hunt around to pick a couple up.

Much appreciated. Smile

Ordered 3x just now from hobby king (NSW) location so should get here promptly! Yeehar Smile
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