[Flying fisho]

Have just started my build of this monster.
1st task was hinging the ailerons - no problems.
2nd - instal the aileron servos, push rods & control horns.
Supplied pushrods are 110mm long & I estimate to be 50mm too long (control horn screw hole would be 10mm past the 1/2 way mark of the aileron towards the trailing edge). Are threaded both ends and cant be shortened, I dont possess die sets to shorten & rethread them. I presume Gazz's & Franks are Super & Cheaper models, did both of you have this problem or am I just the unlucky one. If you experienced the same problem, how did you sort the problem. Assistance will be appreciated with thanks.

[wingtipper]

i didnt have to modify any control rods . are your aileron servos the correct way ? double check everything . i'll measure my control rods tomorrow and get back here .

[Flying fisho]

Turning servo's around would require even shorter push rods. Holes for servo's precut.

[gbanger]

I don't recall having any issues with mine either Wayne.
Here are a few shots of my Aileron installation.
I used extra long servo arms that I bought from Hobbies in the Hills to get the throws I wanted while maintaining a lot of torque.
After I drilled the horn holes I squeezed in a half dozen drops of thin CA to strengthen the load point in the balsa aileron.

       

[Flying fisho]

Definitely a shorter pushrod than mine.
Not sure what to do.
   

[secant0give]

What size thread is on the rods Wayne? and what length do you need?
HK sells various sized threaded push rods

[gbanger]

I dont want to sound like a smart arse mate but have you checked the length of the other rods supplied, those ones look like the elevator/ rudder rods. If they are the wrong length then I recon a trip to H in the H or Kellets will be on the cards.

[Flying fisho]

M3 x 60mm appears to be right by my guestimate, but no luck on HK

[Flying fisho]

Am thinking of cutting pushrods, overlapping 25mm & soldering to shorten them.

[secant0give]

Am thinking of cutting pushrods, overlapping 25mm & soldering to shorten them.

I've done that before, it is nice to scarf join them when you solder them, neatly done you wouldn't know they were ever joined.

I just use a bench grinder to grind the angles and make them 6-10 diameters long.

[wingtipper]

Wayne . Go to h in h and buy some threaded rod with clevises. Always handy for situaions like this

[Raptorfly]

Am thinking of cutting pushrods, overlapping 25mm & soldering to shorten them.

Hi Wayne

If the factory mixed the sizes up just contact Super and Cheaper and ask them if you can ex-change them from another kit. I don't see why he would mind. I think one of the guys name is Calvin.

You can only try.

[gbanger]

Don't do that Wayne, vernier the threads and let me know what size they are.
I may well have a set of dies at work and can run the threads down for you, then you can just cut them off to length and away you go.
Gazz

[smuzz]

I've got a tap and die set too Wayne - if you'd like to borrow them, you're welcome of course!

[secant0give]

If it's piano wire its pretty tough stuff to cut threads on
You'll want to make sure you have a HSS die if it is,
Then again it might be just soft wire anyboadies guess??

[Flying fisho]

Cutting & threading probably not an option, threads are rolled formed. Unthreaded section is a smaller diameter than thread.
I have emailed Craig who has contacts with Super n Cheaper who might be able to get them rectified. Otherwise may have to source 3mm rod & thread both ends.
Last time I was at Hobs in the Hills, they only had 2.5mm threaded rods. If I can source 3mm threaded rod as I would like to use supplied ball joints & control horn connectors.
Oh the joys of ARF

[secant0give]

3mm ay?

I just happen to have a length of 3mm threaded rod on my desk
It's yours if you want it ?
I can bring it to the field on Saturday

edit ...It's booker rod so it's threaded for its whole length all you have to do is cut it as short as you want. There's at least enough for the aileron linkages

[Flying fisho]

Jason your blood is worth bottling, will be accepted with huge amounts of gratitude.
Will wait for Craig to get a response from Super n Cheaper and give them a chance to rectify their mistake before I impose upon you though.
Oh the different joys of being a member of our club & reaping it's benefits

[Flying fisho]

Jason, I would like to take you up on that 3m rod if possible, no particular hurry, am taking my time with this build.

[secant0give]

No worries mate I'll try and remember to bring it down tomorrow
I'll have the boys with me, I have to go to the Fiberglass place and get some more PVA mould release so I will drop in on the way

[Flying fisho]

Thanx Jsaon, you da mannnnnn

[wingtipper]

good luck with the build Wayne , after engine mount sorting the rest is a very easy build i found . well compared to the yak 55M it was a much easier build , hope you find it that way too , shame they supplied the wrong pushrods mate , cant wait to see this one

[Flying fisho]

Thanks for your well wishes & vote of confidence Tipper, hope it lives up to your statement of ease.
Time will tell

[Flying fisho]

Thanks for the M3 threaded bar Jason, worked a treat & ailerons now installed. I estimated 60mm, final cut was actually only 50mm. A far shot from 110mm supplied.
Needed some M3 x 10mm bolts. No luck at Hobs in Hills. Always successful at a little shop in Parra.
They are Lee Bros (also show a sign saying "the Nut House") located at 6 Dunlop St, North Parramatta. Ph 9890 1555. They stock almost any size nut, bolt or screw you could ask for. Also quite a good stock of useful tools. (I now own a tap & die set).
Few more things I need to query about this build. Rudder is a pull/pull wire system. I presume the wire crosses over each other on the way back to the rudder but have no idea where the wires exit the fuse. A photo would be handy please.
The motor standoffs needed are 65mm long, threaded to accommodate M4 threaded bolts.
No hurry for these Jason, but am hoping to have plane ready for HMAS fly in.

[gbanger]

Im not running the pull pull system Wayne, and for memory Frank is using the same set up as me.
If you look at the specs supplied they suggest mounting the rudder servo at the back to save weight, you can run pull pull but it is not necessary in this airframe unless you are going to do serious 3D.
   

[Flying fisho]

Good call Gazz, & thanks for the photo. It is certainly a much simpler method, my setup with the MX2 pull/pull system was not much fun to set up, keeping wires equally tensioned.
I usually use the table that I take to the field for my plane builds, but this baby is somethig else. Have succonded the dining table, a 6 seater and it still overhangs both ends.

[Flying fisho]

Cant see anywhere in the instructions for supplying an air outlet to promothe airflow through the plane for cooling esc & batteries. Do I need to bother & if so could I have a suggestion or location of your cutout.
Thanks guys.

[smuzz]

Ah yes, the ol' "Rear air hole" problem reappears

[gbanger]

I haven't put one in mine yet Wayne because the batteries etc. have been coming down colder than a blue whales left knacker... so I just haven't bothered, but your power system is very different to mine so I would certainly be doing some temp checks on the first few flights!
Gazz

[Flying fisho]

Another good call Gazz, should be ready for HMAS Saturday flyin. Just waiting on 4S 5000mAh batteries from HK ordered today