Thanks Steve
Here is the Eflite link.
The Retracts page will access the different sizes but click on the manual in blue middle right screen and you will get a drawing with specs so you can work out which ones you need, but I think these will be the go.
+1 for Paul's recommendation of dealing with Philip (PW-RC)!
I received my FW-190 from him the other day and he'd put a notice on the outside of the carton saying words to the effect of "if the box is damaged, don't sign for it - allow it to be returned for a replacement". Can't say fairer than that - and he's very responsive with email messages too.
So after last week 70mm 10 blade Changesun scorpion motor smoke Trail During Flight i Decided to Convert My Hobbyking Funjet to a 90mm 12 Blade Changesun Setup.
Well heres Before Photo
Here is the Conversion Setup
What Can I say I running this Baby on 4s and its Got Scary Thrust to weight Ratio.
Need to up Existing Speedy to Really Push it to the limits on 5s
Yes I'm a Edf Junkie at the moment
I'm Thinking 4 x 90mm 12 blade Edf's on the back of my Electric Mountain Bike, Yeh baby.
Hi Guys,
Someone Asked me many weeks ago how did i balance edf unit as i mentioned i had to do it for my 12 blade Edf.
I am Sorry for not Uploading this Sooner and i Know That it may be Useful to Some.
A BALANCED EDF CAN REDUCE THE OUTPUT VIBRATION NOISE BY AN AMAZING AMOUNT AND SOUND BETTER AND QUIETER
You can Actually notice on my Stryker 90mm edf view Clip that there is still some slight Vibration during Flight but minimal.
I probably will Rebalance it again and see if i cannot get Rid of it Totally but it was Absolutely Terrible when i first put it Together and did a power Test at Home.
I actually got mine in in pieces and had to slot in each blade in and while doing that i balance it out as well.
Using a simple method of rearranging the blades till i got it balanced and did not have to add any weight at all.
I just balanced out my 10 blade edf last night and took a snap shot of it in practice.
Items Required -
1 Prop Balancer
Blue Tack
White Marking Pen
And some Epoxy or Silastic for the Permanent Weight.
I use Blue Tack for my Temporary Weight and once Done replace it with Epoxy and then if needed once Dry i cut away a bit of Epoxy or add a touch more.
And Lots of Patience
Bleow is the Actual amount of blue Tack that was Required to Balnce it Out that i Replaced with Epoxy.
Finished Product with Epoxy set and you can see it was slightly scaped out a bit to get spot on, Epoxy opposite mark, as the mark was the Heaviest point.
It spins and stops in any position Now, BALANCED Yeh !
Here is a Video Clip That I found on the You Tube That explains it quite well and basically is the Same way as i do it, so no need it upload one.
Remember the edf Prop Shaft is important to be balanced as well but you will know this when you see the distance of blades to the outer Rim of Edf and adjust either prop adaptor or motor position to suit, dont just cut the Blades or then you will have an im balanced edf prop and back to Square one.
Just finished balancing my 90mm 12 Blade Edf, added a bit of Epoxy weight to correct.
Hers Hoping for a lot Smoother Sound as a Static Test i just did sounds really Good with No Vibration at All., not that i can notice, a Vid cam Flight test will spot it if any.
Install custom 90mm Intake Lip To Stryker had too use two halves off a 70mm intake lip heated to fit nicely around the 90mm edf and glue on Top and Bottom, Lets see how she sounds and goes now
I really Liked the look of the Fournier, and being Balsa 2m and so Cheap Plug And Fly.
Well it just came in Mail. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18960__Fournier_RF_5_Balsa_Plug_n_Fly_Scale_Glider_1550mm.html
I have Modified it a Bit and finished it Today -
1. Upgraded Motor and Esc, Power Setup Sweet Now.
1450kv sk3 Turnigy 60 amp Esc 10x10 Prop 3s Setup 4000ma
LOng Flights with some Power Too
2. Removed Wing Dihedral and strengthen Main wing and Bolting On of wing.
3. Increased Wheel Size
4. Replaced control Rods to stiffer wire and mg servo for Elevator.
Oh Steve, steve, steve, steve, steve.
How unusual for you to modify an aircraft to the hilt !!!!
Did you actually try in in standard configuration or are you just OUT OF CONTROL !!!!!
(25-04-2012, 05:39 PM)smuzz Wrote: That's interesting, Steve - I look forward to seeing that go.
Why did you remove the dihedral though?
Dihedral removed so it will be more aerobatic and sleeker, less Drag through the Air.
I done this on my previous Glider Setups which had stacks of dehedral and found it flew Fine, as i'm not concerned too much with Roll Stability that Dihedral Gives.
I do know this may make it less of a Glider as i lose lift.
Please Correct me if I'm Wrong , But This is what i Have Found Out In My Previous Gliders when i have trialed and tested Setups and Wing angles etc.
interesting , i have never seen a pylon glider before , looking forward to seeing it in the air . looking at it trying to find a spot for the 90mm ducted fan mounting , but i cant find one . wait one under each wing would be the go ???
RE: Stephen's Plane Build's, Mods, Techniques etc - Too Drunk to Fly - 25-04-2012
All you should lose is stability not flight performance, as stability is only an advantage for novices..... I reckon with your skill, knife edges would be done with ease...... and that would be a sight with that wing span...
You should actually get slightly more lift with out dihedral. because the lift force works perpindicular to the wing and if both wings are flat then the lift force vector is verticle rather than canted off at the dihedral angle, ie inward on each side. You might find that you get less effeciency with the flat wing because you have to give here more aileron inputs to keep her level, due to less positive stability in roll and that may cost you in the form of added drag.
You should'nt get as much yaw roll coupeling either. I found models with high aspect ratio wings yaw a little bit in the opposite direction to an aileron input. To counter this, if it happens, you might want to mix a little rudder in with ailerons to make her roll nice and axialy but see how she goes with out it first, you can allways set up a mix so you can turn it on & off with a switch.
Looks like a nice model and it should be even better with the improvements you've made to it !!
(26-04-2012, 08:27 AM)secant0give Wrote: You should actually get slightly more lift with out dihedral. because the lift force works perpindicular to the wing and if both wings are flat then the lift force vector is verticle rather than canted off at the dihedral angle, ie inward on each side. You might find that you get less effeciency with the flat wing because you have to give here more aileron inputs to keep her level, due to less positive stability in roll and that may cost you in the form of added drag.
You should'nt get as much yaw roll coupeling either. I found models with high aspect ratio wings yaw a little bit in the opposite direction to an aileron input. To counter this, if it happens, you might want to mix a little rudder in with ailerons to make her roll nice and axialy but see how she goes with out it first, you can allways set up a mix so you can turn it on & off with a switch.
Looks like a nice model and it should be even better with the improvements you've made to it !!
I gave Fournier A Maiden Today between Jobs as i was near Pemac in some gusty wind.
Took Off very easily off the ground and was up very high in the sky in a few seconds, so the power setup is Perfect.
Gave it a 1/2 dozen clicks of elevator up as i always tend to give more down elevator before a maiden and that was it.
Flew quite well.
But as mentioned by Gorden, Kev B and John H it needed some Differential mix.(Thanks Guys for the Tip on Differential)
Second Flight added in 30% Differential Mix to Ailerons and some expo and was up for a nice 10 min no problems and flew nice, even gave it a Knife Edge, some Rolls, Flat Spins, Inverted and Lots and Lots of Full Throttle
After sevral Flights Again Today, I have Decided to Re-instate Dihedral To Main Wing as there was too much Aileron Control for Flying and Stability was Not There.
Even Though it was slippery Fast, and Aerobatic, I have Decided i wanted something That can Glide Nicely but with a bit of Power still to get moving.
1.6m Fornier Glider / 1.4m Fornier Trainer
I needed a good trainer for the weekend so i pulled out my old RV9 wing out of the Roof, and with a few mounting mods and a good strong landing gear setup.
All Done and best of all the wings are interchangeable by simply unscrewing two srcrews and fitting other wing.
Maiden it on Tuesday and played pass the tx with John H and it Flew Nice.
I have since Decreased the Prop Size to 10x4.7 Slow Fly for a slower flier and Toed In Landing wheels for a Straighter runway takeoff.
The Turnigy K-Force series are based on an all new powerful microprocessor.
The new CPU means ultra fast sync timing, crisper throttle response, less battery load and reduced FET heat buildup.
Specification:
Output: Continuous 100A, burst 150A up to 10 seconds.
Input Voltage: 2-6 cells lithium battery or 5-18 cells NIMH battery.
BEC: Switching mode DC-DC regulator. 3A@5.25V or 3A@6V switchable by user progromming.
Control Signal Transmission: Optically coupled system.
Max Speed:
2 Pole: 210,000rpm
6 Pole: 70,000rpm
12 Pole: 35,000rpm
Size: 70mm (L) * 34mm (W) * 16mm (H).
Weight: 82g.
Features:
*High performance microprocessor (24khz) brings out the best compatibility with all kinds of motors and the highest driving efficiency.
*Wide-open heatsink design to get the best heat dissipation effect.
*Improved Normal, Soft, Very-Soft start modes, compatible with aircraft and helicopter.
*Smooth, linear, quick and precise throttle response.
*Throttle signal transfered through optically coupled system to avoid the electromagnetic interference.
*Multiple protection features: Low-voltage cut-off protection / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection
*Governor mode for helicopter.
*The firmware of the ESC can be updated through the USB adapter.
*User programmable via Tx, Programming card or pc USB port. .
*Not compatible with non K-Force esc programming card.
You May find that it needs the Frequency Switching up from the default 8khz to 16khz, as mine is Running at 24khz and is smooth as and cool as it is switching at a comfortable rate for the kv, motor Pole and lipo setup.
Turnigy Plush 80amp which i have used on this setup a few times worked fine but being 80 amp and running on its limit i upped it to the kforce 100amp but i cannot find its switching freq as its not spec on item http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__3727__TURNIGY_Plush_80A_w_UBEC_Speed_Controller.html
Steve
EDIT DLUX ESC STATES ONLY 2 POLE MOTOR RPM NO SPECS FOR OTHER POLES THIS COULD BE THE ISSUE ?
Steve
After todays maiden and consequent testing, I when home and did the following.
Changed the ESC timing to high and raised the frequency to 16 (maximum) and removed the ESC to motor extension wiring. I drilled a hole through the tubine housing and routed the wiring directly out the side (to negate the need for the extension harness) same as your setup.
Then I removed the ESC and ran it at idle (I mean just spinning) behind the EDF to assist with cooling, after 1 minute it was warm at 2 minutes it was hot and after 3 minutes it was 43' C.
Pretty sure the ESC is dodgey!
I redesigned the rear of my canopy with a cutout to lift the ESC into the airstream and fitted a wedge to lift the ESC up into the airflow.
As luck would have it I had another DLUX 100 amp ESC, and after some snappy soldering and a few programme changes I tested the new setup as before.
After 2 minutes the speedy was cold after 3 minutes it was just starting to get tepid.
Then I reinstalled the whole shooting match and did a full power test.
The amps spiked at 97 for 2 seconds then droped back to 85.
Seems to be OK but I will find out tomorrow with a flight test down at the field.
Just have a funny feeling that the 40C battery may be an issue and may need to go with a big Nano, either that or as we originally thought, maybe the DLUX just cant cut the mustard.
Looks a lot better for the Esc Cooling and wiring Harness nice and short.
The lipo won't be an issue, see how you go Today with the re test flight.
But from testing different esc's i have noticed that some are just not suited for certain applications.
The Dlux possibly may not like running at 5s and turning a 1850kv motor, but may be comfortable running a 1850kv motor at 4s, as timing changes when theres more voltage added.
Paul, yeh i wouldn't of thought that the dlux would have been an issue with the setup that gazz has, but theres something definitely going on when its at full throttle.
And it seems to all point too the Esc unless theres something we are missing ?
Would a lipo do this, ( it was the lipo i used in mine and it was fine)
Motor, same as mine ( It turns smoothly )
Wiring (all looks Good)
The other Option is Gazz tests his setup with my Turnigy Plush 80 and see if it does it. as i flown it with the turnigy plush 80 and it flew fine. But swapped it out as i wanted a higher amp esc.
I was pushing limits on the 80 amp turnigy when on full throttle.
Thanks guys hope they will be ok then.
They may even be here now as I'm not back from Brisbane until tomorrow night
and don't know what mail awaits me.