Nice one, I like that colour scheme, !! Coul;d be a up for a bit of formation areobatics ??
You won't be dissapointed it's the same as my Yellow Yak 55m. It's a better kit than the HK Yak 55m of the same size !!
My one came out at bang on 5Kgs. with the 12 3000 lipo's and the G160.
I used HXT 12 servos and have been very happy with them so far
Make sure you paint the timber inside the fuse around the landing gear with west epoxy to toughen it up.
I've almost finished doing the last of the mods to the HK one. I might even get it down to the field on the weekend for a test flight with it's new horosontal tail
Gotta love these Yaks
!!
cool , thanks for the tips . i'm off next weekend so i'll have a look at yours on the field , i'll probably stick with the 6s 3000's as well as i have some and will buy a few more . this will be a slow build as parts will come when more funds are available , but i want to make sure its right before it flies , for safety , power , structural rigidity and balance , everything needed will be fitted , any mods required for strength will be done before flight . the one thing that is important is you can replace the frame , but you cant replace a person , and secondly the hardeware can be re used in MKII .
I THINK THE FRAME LOOKS GREAT , being a mid winger , and the wing tips nice ,cowel cooling pretty impressive colour scheme excells , looking forward to customising . you guys have already recommended some good gear in flying fishos thread , utilising others experiences is always important and saves money and losses , so hardware i will study here . motor though will be the SK3 63-74 190 KV ON 12 S . I WILL TRY several props and stick with tried and proved ESC'S ETC .
There's a big difference in weight between the two motors the G160 is 35% lighter for the same power. Mind you it has a higher KV 290 instead of 190 but that, understandably means, just a different prop. The difference in weight is 7.8 ounces, about half a pound and it's right up the front of the buss too.
The thing is with the G160 you need to do a little bit of work on it to make it handle 12S. It requires grouting with silica filled epoxy between the magnets and carefull balancing to get the rotor just right. Once that's done they are simply a power house. I've got two done that way now and they are e very successfull
INTERESTING MOTOR , this will pull 90 amps on 6s with a 20x8 prop , 4.5kg plane recommended , 370kv . pretty impressive on youtube vids .
my motor on 12s 190 kv will have similar rpm and will weigh an extra battery + heavier motor but swinging a 21x10 prop .
weird how we can have different setups .
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/axi_gold_5320...3_prd1.htm
ITS BIG !!!!!! 73 INCH WINGSPAN .
Lookin good !!
I'll bet the control surfaces are all hinged by now
unpacked and scrutinized all parts, i have to give this 99% + . covering perfect , no twists or faults evident in fuselage , wings or horizontal stab and tailplane . cowel paint perfect along with fitment . canopy excellent . the only criticism is it doesn't come with a pilot . and where the wings fit into the side of the fuselarge outer frame , there is clearance all around the wing surface to the tune of about 3 mm , i'm sure this would create drag and air vortex's .
IT'S daunting to start the build as i don't have any parts other than the frame kit at this stage . but pretty sure as far as arf's go , the build will be quite simple . fingers crossed . still trying to decide on motors SK3 63-74 192KV 10-12S OR ROTOMAX 1.60, 231KV 10-12S , i want to use large props 20x10 , 19x10, 19x12, 21x8, how does hobby in the hills go with big prop stock ? price idea ??? props arent readily available at HK , in all sizes , 2ndly there are electric lightwood and sport props which vary in weight , and 3rdly apc props arent available at HK . i'll bed fitting larger wheels as well . interesting to note , that some people are flying these on 6s with 380kv motors , and it really is a tough decision adding an extra battery for 12S AND AN EXTRA 400GRMS OF MOTOR . . the plane will be 1kg heavier ( 20%) because of 12 S , spinning at the same rpm too , with a bigger prop though . thats the thing with custom building , there aint no such thing when its a 1st attempt build . even plug choices , i like xt60 plugs but they are only rated at 60 amps , so it's t plugs or bullet connectors , also little thingds like BEC battery charge plugs for charging , need to purchase all this stuff , and motor balancer etc etc . a lot of forthought needs to go into it . having a RANT . need to take my own advice . SEE SIG v v v v v v
Yep patience
I think if you go for a much lighter motor you'll have to add weight to the nose so you won't end up anything like 400g lighter. The tail wheel is already pretty light on this machine so you can't save weight up the back of the buss like this and it uses only one servo up the back for the elevator. the rudder is a pull pull arrangement with the servo just behind the C of G. You could save some all up weight by using a Pull pull set up on the elevator as well and shifting that servo up near the rudder servo. This might save you 5 to 6 ounces but not 400 grams .
My theory is build it as light as you can but it still has to balance.
GETTING THERE . just have to save up around 400 bucks then comes the spending spree , really looking forward to this . most of the main stuff is available at hk australia , so thats good , i can get all thew fiddly stuff from international warehouse too .
where can i buy suitable props for this size plane any hobby shops sell them . ????
I get my big wooden props from HK, they do up to 21" in the light wooden electrics and they are beautifully balanced. Hobbies in the hills carries just about everything APC but are obviously a little more expensive.
The light beech props that Jason recommended are actually for IC engines, I have used them before and they are very good props but but are a little on the heavy side, these are more suitable for electric aircraft.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...asp?whl=XX&idCategory=299&v=&sortlist=P&LiPoConfig=&CatSortOrder=desc
THANKS , fellas , much appreciated.
here's a pick of how I did my motor mount I just spaced the motor off the mounting plate the spacers are held against the motor by studs made from long grub screws.
[
attachment=3635]
HEY THANKS MATE . we dont have any stuff at work under 24 inch diametre if you have any of this tube and some brooker rod/ grub screws in stock i'll grab some , if not i have other options . thanks for the tip , looks like an easy option cheers .
They are 12mm rods drilled and tapped in each end.
Measure up and tell me how long you need them and I'll have a look and see what I can do
well a lot of theory has been going on about this while i get more stock on other models etc . i have an 18x8 , an 18x12 , and 2 20x8 light wood props on order , i have the srvos ready to fit , and wires rudder ext arm , bec ,lighter wheels and a few more goodies on order as well , yet to order the motor and esc + program box . one thing i buggered up in ordering was servo ext wires, actually bought some 32 AWG . then realised WTF . i cant run those , 26 AWG at minimum , preferably 22 . anyhow i have more glue and zap etc on order helps to strengthen the fuselage etc . thought i'd make a dean plug in series connector to save a few buck as i have all the necessary parts here , then realised the wire i'd used 2.2mm may not be happy at 50 volts 80 amps 4000 watts , even in short bursts so built another with 6mm wire , which increased the weight fromn 20 grms to 30 grams . but really better to be overweight AND over rated then in a pile of shards on the strip . all these things have been an interesting challange , before the build has even gotten underway , but it makes it all fun as i thing prep and customising is all part of the fun . of course i'm borrowing tips off others too , my eyes and ears are always open , even if the wallet isnt. HAHA.
well another $260 spent at HK AUSSIE WAREHOUSE on this beast + the $190 spent at the int warehouse last week , which is now on the way , adding to the purchase frame $299 , and that makes $749 so far + $50 worth of glue purchase and here i'm at $799. ( without main batteries) which could easily be $200 for 4 batteries ( 2 flights) .
i still have to get motor mount sorted during the build . i must say though having 3 lots of seperate orders coming from HK , it's like christmas is coming
$$ quickly add up eh !!!!!! but I must say, mostly is worth it depending on the style of flying you are trying to achieve. Nothing beats the rare bears for cheap speed thrills but the bigger planes ceartainly look more graceful in the air (dependant on who is in control
). The extra $$ for me adds a lot more flying concentration and makes for more planning of approaches. Flight nerves tend to increase with the $$$$$ as well, interfering with ability or for some people introducing a welcome burst of adrenalin. Looking forward to seeing your beast in the air.
Yes it does quickly Add up and that's just using the turnigy stuff from HK
If you use the really top of the line gear it's even more
But back in the good old days it was much more expencive
I remember things costing an arm and a leg and a kidney too
How much did it cost to put a 40 size model together in 1990 ?
Probably more in real terms than one of these big yaks does today
Work out how long you need the spacers and ill make you a set
Let me know what the threads are in the back of the motor and then using the original back plate and some studs you can set it up like the photo in post #15
Thanks guys . Jason thanks for the offer i'll take you up on that
Well some props arrived today . 3x a beech props , very heavy 2 ( 20x8 )105g, and 18x12 100g .
and one light electric 18x8 65g prop .
will the a beech type props be ok for electric 3d ? i'm spewin as they have 10mm holes in them and the motor shaft is 8mm , i'll have to get them bushed .
HAVE I BOUGHT THE WRONG PROPS ??????
Those props will still fly ok
They will just take a little longer to spool up
run them without a spinner if your worried about the extra weight messing with the C of G
It will be hard to fit them to a spinner anyway cause the root of the blades will be pretty chunky
Jason is right Frank, they will fly nice, but spooling up on throttle will take longer than a lighter prop (which also burns more power).
Heavier props are better suited to scale and sports fliers, with 3D aircraft the lighter the prop the better.
what about apc props . ? if i was to buy a 20x8 apc . would that be a better option than what i have ? or is it akin to what i have and the lightprops are more suited over the apc also ?
the hub size of the 20x8 a type beech prop is massive .I MUST SAY , it even looks big compared to the a type 18x12 , being a slow rpm motor 192 kv i dont want to give away performance so wanted high thrust and diametre .
the 18x8 light wood prop that i have is very light indeed . but it might be a little under propped for the motor i chose . and i did buy a 75mm spinner i do want to use it , and yes i will have to cut about 30% of the cone away in order to use it . light wood props have been out of stock for some time at HK . IN THESE SIZES .
If you look back to post #12 of this thread you will see some links to places you can buy light wood props if your going to order some let me know cause I'm after a 19x6 light electric or two
Cheers
The APC's would be a better choice, I personally would not use a heavy prop for electric flight particularly on a 3D bird. As I said I a previous post the light wood electrics are much more suited to that partucular application, and making bushes for big props may generate vibration issues that you really don't want with the throttle variance associated with larger 3D aircraft.
OK ! TIME FOR A WHINGE FEST !!!
I received the SK3 motor today , and when i looked at it i wasn't impressed , the outrunner casing has a spigot where the stub shaft bolts onto the casing and 4x 3mm tapped holes !!!! these 4 holes are equally spaced on a radius around the spigot , the problem is there are 5 cooling vents in the casing , which means 2 of the tapped holes comes very close to the vents ( poor design ) tapping it out to 4mm isnt an option .
the thing is this motor can swing a 22 inch prop @ upto 4000 watts all on 3mm bolts tapped into aluminium less than 3mm deep , combine this with the fact the shaft is only 8mm diametre and it's hollow !!!! adding further the stub shaft recess is too small for the spigot , they wont mate together without a mod !!!!
on the other end of the motor where the mount plate fits , the bolts are 4mm !!! and not helicoiled like they advertise , this is a heavy motor which needs to be spaced farward from the firewall !!! which will compound the stress on the 4mm bolts .
for a motor of this size , which is marketed as the next step up from HK . i'm dissapointed upon inspection . to me it is poorly designed . one prop strike will probably cause a lot of damage .
rant off with the motor .
now to rant on the K'FORCE ESC 120V . this version has a spark arrestor with 5 capacitors between the 2 battery leads dangling off wire cables about as thick as the hair on my balding scalp . nough said . remember this has to be fitted to a 3d aeroplane .
cheap switch ! bought the only switch in stock at the hk ausie warehouse , heaps of comments about failures with this switch as its a single rail switch , looking at it i strongly agree , i bought a few switches from jaycar to use instead , which means a lot of wring and soldering in the GARAGE !!
CAN ANY ONE TELL I'VE JUST WOKEN UP FROM NIGHT SHIFT ?
Yeah i guess your right GAZZ . IT'S WRONG TO ADVERTISE higher quality than standard , as you can see the bearing in tho motor will be good for a go kart wheel , yet the the 3mm screws swinging a high rpm large prop .
did you imply that i could remove those 4 capacitors if i want from the ESC ?
