True, I have never directly sealed the foam first with just straight poly, BUT...
I have Fibreglassed first using the poly as the resin and still have been caught out.
This only happened the first time I fibreglassed a model and it could well have been some error on my part. Still not a bad habit to check a small area first before spoiling a good wing or fuselage.
I'm not saying that your wrong because my old mustang was sprayed with White Knight Super Chrome fast drying enamel and the finish was great but again only after it had been f/g'ed.
Another spray can paint I've successfully used is the Tamiya Color paints for polycarbonates (the stuff you use on the clear plastic RC car bodies). My L39 is painted with that one. (Nice tough Glossy finish)
Gday Paul
Interesting, seems to be many variations on this technique that you have explored. Thanks for the info on what you used for the L39, that really does look nice.
This technique that you and Steve have come up with and perfected has exceeded all my expectations and I urge other club members to give it a go and I thank you both again for sharing your experiences with us.
If anyone wants to have some of the poly goop let me know and I will bring the tin down. I purchased a 1 litre tin that would do about 15 Strykers.
Cheers
Rob B
Hmmm, decisions... I was gonna carbon fibre the leading edges of my new Stryker but I think I may go the route you guy's are going
If anybody is thinking about doing the poly and glass upgrade on any of their aircraft.
I also have 3/4 of a can of polyurathane and about 6 sheets of ultra thin glass that I will sell.( At a good price of course)
Gday KV
You need to think about what you want to achieve. Paul and Gazza's methods will add strength to your airframe and provide a good glossy finish due to the addition of fibreglass. My method just seals the surface and facilitates the paintjob. If you sat my Stryker next to Paul's L39 the 39 has a much nicer finish and a harder surface.
I suspect you want to add strength and rigidity so go with Paul and Gazz's methods. Just using the poly does not stiffen the structure up that much.
Cheers
Rob B
Hey Garry,
Don't get rid of your glass cloth and poly.
Using it becomes addictive
before long you're gonna want to
glass some other new projects.
Also, just a tip for everyone reading this, you don't need to fully glass a model
I do, but there are plenty others that only glass a wing or underbelly etc, and if you
repair a plane there is nothing wrong in cutting a strip of glass cloth and just covering the repair.
This will add strength to the repair especially if it's in a critical area.
I just attempted glassing the fuslage on my ME 163 Komet
http://www.sbrcmodels.com/store/agora.cg...295*572cm8&p_id=100&xm=on&ppinc=singlekits¤cy=currency2. So far so good
I bought this kit about 4-5yrs ago with the intent of putting a real rocket in it although now I am content with a small inrunner
Arron - if you change your mind, or if you decide to build it with swappable power configurations, then let me know as I've still got some old solid rocket motors left over from my HPR days (a few black powder motors and some ammonium perchlorate composites).
>>Arron - if you change your mind, or if you decide to build it with swappable power configurations, then let me know as I've still got some old solid rocket motors left over from my HPR days (a few black powder motors and some ammonium perchlorate composites). <<
sounds good Steve
I'v got one these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=4203 which fits perfectly snug in the back. It's easy to dissconnect so maybe I could put a rocket in someday.
Steve- do you know what the laws are regarding rockets? I love anything to do with space/science astronomy etc and would love to get into rockets.
No worries Arron - here's the NSWRA's website. I used to be a member of it many years ago, but drifted off into experimental stuff with a few other guys. We made our own motors, both solid (well, they did solids - I hesitated at that) and hybrid with liquid nitrous oxide which was great fun. It was all a bit borderline though when it comes to legalities and in the end I decided to move back to planes instead.
http://www.nswrocketry.org.au/
Happy to swap war-stories next time you're at the field
Hey guys,
I had another attempt at my Cub this morning (as mentioned on pge 4 of this thread) and am still at a loss as to what is happening. I've tried programmable ESC's tried all different programmable options, different motors, set throttle on my radio way back but still same problem. If I have room in my van I'll bring it down next time I go to the field, but in the meantime, any ideas... ?
(12-10-2010, 04:55 PM)Panspermian Wrote: [ -> ]Hey guys,
I had another attempt at my Cub this morning (as mentioned on pge 4 of this thread) and am still at a loss as to what is happening. I've tried programmable ESC's tried all different programmable options, different motors, set throttle on my radio way back but still same problem. If I have room in my van I'll bring it down next time I go to the field, but in the meantime, any ideas... ?
Gday Arron
I Think The Problem is the Timing or Faulty motor.
(You Could Check to make sure too that your connections to motor and Esc are good and no Dry Solder Joints at either motor and esc connectors.
I have a 2408 21t motor, It is 1400kv at prop max is 9x7 sf pushing 20 amps plus on full throttle, i use in the Island hopper and i Know 100% that if the Timing isn't set to HIGH that the motor will squeal at half Throttle.
I assuming you are running 3s lipo, If You a have a Esc Programming card, set it to high timing.,
You are more than happy to pop over with Plane late afternoon if you want to try and fix it before the weekend, or else i can bring down the 2408 21 i have and a different ESC
[
attachment=770]
Steve B,
I think you've done it. Thanks heaps. I was setting my ESC on Low or Normal, now I have it on High and it works
I was keen to duck down the field this arvo with it but the bloody rain came
I'm using an 18Amp programmable ESC but don't why my 25Amp unprogrammable(at least by me) ESC wouldn't work.
(13-10-2010, 06:04 PM)Panspermian Wrote: [ -> ]Steve B,
I think you've done it. Thanks heaps. I was setting my ESC on Low or Normal, now I have it on High and it works
I was keen to duck down the field this arvo with it but the bloody rain came
I'm using an 18Amp programmable ESC but don't why my 25Amp unprogrammable(at least by me) ESC wouldn't work.
Glad you Have It Sorted Arron
Yes i was lucky i got a few Flights in with Glider, i was adjusting The motor angle each flight as i found on full throttle that the Glider wants to fly down wards direction therefore i have to counter act with up elevator a bit. though at normal speed it flies level.
Nearly got it at sweet spot, still a a slight downward pull but a lot better than before.
Steve
Hi guys,
I'm thinking of buying the best of the best flight sim for myself(for christmas) but which one is best?
I've been playing around with clearview all year but need something with alot more variety. Any ideas?
thanks.
Hi Arron
I dont think anyone can say which one is particularly "the best".
I fly with "Pheonix Professional" it has life time upgrades, heaps of aircraft and the general consensus is that it is the best Heli flight sim. The only other one I have experience with is "Real Flight".
It is also recognised as being one of the best.
But remember you only get what you pay for, the cheaper sims have average graphics but aircraft control and flexibility is pretty crappy.
Hope this helps.
Gazz
I am getting my new Corsiar ready to (if possible) maiden tomorrow. However I just have a little sticky situation with the Elevator.
The left hand elevator is grossly higher than the one on the right. Obviously it appears that it is a mechanical situation rather than a trimming issue.
Has anbody got any ideas of how to fix this one?
Thanks and a Happy New Year to all
Victor
Vic - are the elevators being driven by independent servos, or are they operating off one servo with a Y-shaped control rod, or are they using another linkage of some type?
Any chance you could post a photograph mate? ... and happy N/Y to you too!
Steve
(01-01-2011, 11:32 AM)yarrumevets Wrote: [ -> ]Vic - are the elevators being driven by independent servos, or are they operating off one servo with a Y-shaped control rod, or are they using another linkage of some type?
Any chance you could post a photograph mate? ... and happy N/Y to you too!
Steve
Thanks Steve. Frankly all servos are so well concealed ('Sealed' would be a better word) that i cannot see anything. But if I had to make and educated guess both are working off one servo.
OK Victor, perhaps there are threaded clevis connectors to two separate horns? If so, you could make the length adjustment there to shorten the longer one.
(01-01-2011, 05:23 PM)yarrumevets Wrote: [ -> ]OK Victor, perhaps there are threaded clevis connectors to two separate horns? If so, you could make the length adjustment there to shorten the longer one.
Hi Steve,
have checked and there is only onhe clevis. One on the right side. Looks like we shall have to find some other way. Got a feeling that someone or other may suggest using a hot dryer. We shall see anyway.
Thanks for you suggestios Hope to see you on the field tomorrow.
OK Vic, no worries - yes, perhaps things can be put right at the field.
See you there!
S
I had a similar issue with my large epo Cessna and fixed it with a u shaped steel linking the two together, as well a had a slight issue with the Hobby king Yak pnp, which i ended up bending the the existing link so they where equal and then re epoxied.
Heres the old clip of Cessna Fix
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4jxULPc6U
Steve
(01-01-2011, 10:59 PM)samste Wrote: [ -> ]I had a similar issue with my large epo Cessna and fixed it with a u shaped steel linking the two together, as well a had a slight issue with the Hobby king Yak pnp, which i ended up bending the the existing link so they where equal and then re epoxied.
Heres the old clip of Cessna Fix
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4jxULPc6U
Steve
Thanks Steve,
Could not quite see how its done. Hopefully I'll be able to see you at the field later today.
Thanks Again
Victor
I find that I practically have to charge the Nicad Battery Pack on my
DX-7 transmitter almost every time I have to fly.
The directions that come with the DX-7 specifically do not recommend using Lipo batteries.
However, some time ago, I remember pretty well that someone advised that there is a low voltage Lipo that can be used on the transmitter without causing any damage.
I have tried finding this on our web but search has been unsuccessful.
Could someone please point me in the right direction or give me the Specs relating to this magic LIPO Battery!!
Thanks
Victor
Hi Victor,
I received a battery from Rob B. For my DX7 being a lipo & I was also hesitant reading some reports.
I have charged it & it works fine. I had to use my Venom charger though as the battery only has one plug for charging – works fine.
Kieran uses the same I believe.
Battery link is as follows:-
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=6955
(04-02-2011, 11:52 AM)dingy Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Victor,
I received a battery from Rob B. For my DX7 being a lipo & I was also hesitant reading some reports.
I have charged it & it works fine. I had to use my Venom charger though as the battery only has one plug for charging – works fine.
Kieran uses the same I believe.
Battery link is as follows:- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=6955
G'day Ingo
Thanks for you promptest of replies. Have ordered through Our website Hobbyking Orders Thread. Hope to see you down at the field this weekend.
Thanks again
Victor
Thats the one Victor, Never had an issue and rarely have to charge my TX anymore.
Just be VERY wary about the Lipo voltage cliff, As soon as the TX says your lipo is at around 11.0V you will want it charge it quick smart as the voltage will quickly degrade from there. You wont get an alarm till it's too late, omuzz95 style!
(04-02-2011, 05:44 PM)kizza42 Wrote: [ -> ]You wont get an alarm till it's too late, omuzz95 style!
Yeh, and adopting the teenage philosophy of "... I think it will be alright" probably won't work for us!