There sure is Steve, but good luck with the shootin down shit champ.
To shoot someone down you actually have to be able to keep up with them, don't fancy your chances, and now you have given me the heads up, the performance upgrade may get a hurry up and actually be fitted for the maiden, just so I can break the sound barrier on the cherri.
George,
As a matter of fact, it comes with all the pictured accessories, all I have to do is glue the suckers in, the tanks and missiles actually bolt on.
Even comes with the speci dash guages and the 2 cool pilots. No accessories required.
By the way the fuel pods are 550mm long and those beautiful sparrow sidewinder missiles are 420mm long, fully sick bro.
The only issue is all the stuffing around to get a big mo-fo Lipo in the sucker, its gunna take some muckin around but I'll get there.
Actually there us plenty of room, its just a question of entry/removal that will require some re engineering.
HOLY MOLY . A 15X12 PROP GAZ. what do the hacker motors ave over and above other motors ?
try a 14x12 1st .
like i said , i noticed you use hacker motors . ive heard they are top notch . could you please give some reasons as to why .
and didnt realise this plane you have has a whopping 65" wingspan , thats pretty huge .
if it rips through the sound barrier , that is going to be a sight in such a sharp looking model , get that upgrade motor , and tell us the secret specs !!!
There's nothing secret about them, they are probably on par with the high end Scorpions, they are just very powerful and are close to indestructable.... oh yeh... almost forgot... they are made in Germany and you know how crappy they are at engineering things!
If I could afford to.... I'd have them in every single thing I own.
Here's the specs for the Hacker A50 14S
http://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/e-vendo...p=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=15726702&t=3&c=31&p=31
rated @ 1250W for 15 seconds should do 10,000 odd revs/min running on 6S and weighs 345g
Compare it to C5055 KV580 tunagy or similar EMP motor like
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?...4001224151
and the Hacker is slower reving, heavier, puts out less power and is much more expencive. But I'll bet it runs truer, is better balanced, has smoother bearings and the magnets will never fall off. The shaft won't bend if you biff it hard either. The idea is not to biff it tho'
This particular Hacker is the motor I was running in my Seb Art Katana 50.
I was spinning a 16 x 8 in that through the same 80 amp Dualsky ESC powered by a Flightpower 6S 5000mah 30C battery and the motor would come down after an 8 minute aerobatic flight as cool as an Eskimos left nut, I don't know what they do construction wise but I'm sure Hacker over engineers and under rates their motors a lot more than most other manufactures, because in my experience they border on indestructable.
Wouldnt it be nice if all our ARF balsa and ply aircraft were indestructable.
I joined Gazz in the Brazilian Air force. I was at Kelletts hobbies yesterday and could not help myself (Help, illness, If I cannot find help I might just start MAAA (Model Aeroplane Addiction Anonyms). I picked up the Seagull Super Tucano. That scheme and size is just right. I will not be building it untill September as this will be my Birthday present. Gazz and I could have a display flying team for future events.
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Thought you guys might like to read a recent build/review log on the Tucano. I scanned this from Issue243 of Airborne.
(18-06-2012, 12:47 PM)kizza42 Wrote: [ -> ]Thought you guys might like to read a recent build/review log on the Tucano. I scanned this from Issue243 of Airborne.
Thanks for that Kizza. did you notice how they repeated the first paragraph (Assembly) twice!!! so much for proof reading before print... good article though.
Seagull will no longer be making this model. I was told its obsolete now.
When I start the build in Sept/October, I'll take photos and might put it on RC groups. but I think Gazz will have his done by then.
I have already finished hinging all the control surfaces and the biggest modification necessary and thats the complete redisigning of the back of the front retract bay to install a battery carrier.
Now I'm in the middle of modifying the design to incorporate the front retract and steering for the front wheel in the now even smaller front wheel bay
I'm also re evaluating the required motor as the Hacker I have, just doesnt quite seem to fit the bill when doing the maths.
This thing weights almost 5 kgs and I think it needs at least 1400 Watts on 6S with a 14 x 10 or better.
Anyway, I cant wait to get this magnificent aircraft into the sky, but Ive still got a lot of work to do, and now so do you.
Welcome to the club George.
(18-06-2012, 06:53 PM)gbanger Wrote: [ -> ]I have already finished hinging all the control surfaces and the biggest modification necessary and thats the complete redisigning of the back of the front retract bay to install a battery carrier.
Now I'm in the middle of modifying the design to incorporate the front retract and steering for the front wheel in the now even smaller front wheel bay
I'm also re evaluating the required motor as the Hacker I have, just doesnt quite seem to fit the bill when doing the maths.
This thing weights almost 5 kgs and I think it needs at least 1400 Watts on 6S with a 14 x 10 or better.
Anyway, I cant wait to get this magnificent aircraft into the sky, but Ive still got a lot of work to do, and now so do you.
Welcome to the club George.
I'll follow in your footsteps master...
I'm looking at HK G110 295kv 8S what do u think?
8S at 295kv. You will have a heap more power than me champ, plus a lot more unusable weight.
I will be running my beastie on a maximum of 6S maybe even only 5S
The only issue I can see with running the 110 is that you will be generating a massive amount of torque that you can't use, the biggest prop you can spin on these things is a 15" at best ...................... there's something to think about?
My best maths match is a Hacker 50-16S spinning a 15 x 10 or a 14 x 12
See you up there, Homi.
(18-06-2012, 08:31 PM)gbanger Wrote: [ -> ]8S at 295kv. You will have a heap more power than me champ, plus a lot more unusable weight.
I will be running my beastie on a maximum of 6S maybe even only 5S
The only issue I can see with running the 110 is that you will be generating a massive amount of torque that you can't use, the biggest prop you can spin on these things is a 15" at best ...................... there's something to think about?
My best maths match is a Hacker 50-16S spinning a 15 x 10 or a 14 x 12
See you up there, Homi.
I see your point I was trying to replace the .91-125 OS they recommend.!!
I can go G60 but I wanted a bit more power. Will keep looking..
Most of the guys flying these with electric conversions are running 50 size motors 5S 550kv or 6S 400kv or there abouts.
The tried and true Watts equation says we need a minimum of 1100 watts (working on 4.5 kgs flight weight) for above average sports performance! Thats why I'm looking at 1400, nice to have that little extra grunt.
(18-06-2012, 11:00 PM)gbanger Wrote: [ -> ]Most of the guys flying these with electric conversions are running 50 size motors 5S 550kv or 6S 400kv or there abouts.
The tried and true Watts equation says we need a minimum of 1100 watts (working on 4.5 kgs flight weight) for above average sports performance! Thats why I'm looking at 1400, nice to have that little extra grunt.
Gazz, I think I found the right motor for this.
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-430kv Brushless Outrunner Motor.
Specs.
Turns: 12T
Voltage: 5~8S Lipoly
RPM/V: 430kv
Internal resistance: 0.019 Ohm
Max Loading: 70A
Max Power: 1750W
Shaft Dia: 6.0mm
Bolt holes: 25mm
Bolt thread: M4
Weight: 378g
Motor Plug: 4mm Bullet Connector
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=18125
Have you worked out how much room we have under the cowl and if we need a motor mount or stand offs?
I'm compiling a list of all the bits I need to collect so I can have here ready by 1st of September. Any tips while you build will help.
That looks like the ticket George.
I spent last night doing a heap of static tests with various motors I have from previous aircraft that need new homes in a vice on my work bench.
I used a 14 x 10 APC so I could get a good comparison between the motors.
Eflite Power 46 (670kv)
Could not handle the pace at 5S so it has been put back in the Waiting for an airframe box.
Dualsky XM 5050-CA8 (575kv)
(This motor was on my Kyosho Red Bull Edge 540)
5s 4000mah - 65 amps/1150 watts.
I think this motor would have ample power it really develops a massive amount of torque, I could probably spin a 15 x 10 but that would be close to max load.
This motor arguably develops more thrust than the Hacker because of the higher kv.
Hacker A50-14S (425kv)
(This motor was on my Seb Art Katana spinning a 16 x 8 prop on 6S and always came down cool as)
5S 4000mah - 32 amps/ 620 watts ( not even trying)
6S 5000mah - 40 amps/ 830 watts (Still not trying I will buy a 15 x 10 and a 15 x 12 and re test)
I'm pretty sure this is the motor I will use, as you can see by the results the Hacker isnt even trying with the 14 x 10, so I will test it with the bigger prop tomorrow when I pick it up from H In the H.
I have my motor mounted on this, they are built like a brick shithouse and are adjustable to pretty much anywhere you want them.
http://duanesplanes.com.au/product.php?productid=1574&cat=65&page=1
The distance from the firewall to the back of the spinner is 150mm (see page 12 of the instruction manual for the spacing of the motor so the cowl will then be in the correct position)
Gazz
Ordered the following for the Super Tucano.
*SK3-5055-430 Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-430kv Brushless
*UBEC15 TURNIGY 8-15A UBEC for Lipoly
*9329000016 APC Style Propeller 16x8
*LC-FWM-2530 HXT Alloy Composite Firewall Mount (110/45mm)
*9171000034 Tie-D-Wires Cable & Wire Holders (10pc)
Still waiting for HK to stock the servo's you recommended.
I have 80A, 90A and 120A ESC's will choose one.
I have RC lander Servoless Metal retracts 7kg, and Large size standard servoless but I like the Metal push pull retracts supplied..not sure. What are you fitting?
Just tested the 15 x 10 APC on 6S
1140 Watts at 48 Amps, I think that will be sweet.
Here is a link to some valuable info on your electric modification
http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/do...00078a.pdf
I will be using the supplied retracts, they are very good quality. I will be using 1 servo for the wing retracts (as per the jd perkins review) and another mounted in the front retract bay for the front wheel.
You may have issues using a 16" prop, particularly if you are taking off in long grass I have mounted my 15" prop and there aint much room left, the 16" will have clearance but there wont be much. I have a 16 x 10 on stand by if I think I need a bit more grunt.
Gazz
Since I didn't get to fly this weekend after reading of the much pit runway reports. And since I've received my Motor and Mount from HK for the Super Tucano. I decided to measure, drill and fit the mount and motor. I used the existing holes in the fire-wall and re-drilled the mount to fit.
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Then for the Lipo I made the bottom hatch removable with a latch for access. I removed the servo trays for the push pull retracts this gave me good access to fit a 6S Lipo in place of the fuel tank. (Will build a tray to hold the Lipo, epoxy that in when I finish the build and check the CG).
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Since I removed the trays I will need to use Servoless retracts.
RC lander has just made and shipped me custom 130mm Oleo legs and metal retracts to fit staight in.
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Smart move installing the servoless retracts mate. If I had the cash I would have put in Eflite's myself, and in hindsight it would have made the build SOOOOO much easier, but anyway, I am almost finished mine and hope to have it ready for maiden this weekend at PEMAC, the build would have been a breeze if it was IC but the installation of a battery tray as well as using the supplied retracts has made it a bitch of a build with lots of design changes necessary, but I am confident that when it is done it will be a very nice aircraft. I am setting up all the control throws at the moment and will post some pics tomorrow or Wednesday when I am finished. Using servoless retracts will also make it a easy to transport. I will probably leave mine fully assembled for transport as the retract connections would make it a time consuming excersize to get prepared for flight, lucky I have the van!
Gazz
(09-07-2012, 06:26 PM)gbanger Wrote: [ -> ]hope to have it ready for maiden this weekend at PEMAC
Gazz
Let me know I want to be there for the maiden even if I cannot fly at PEMAC.
You can still go servoless after you maiden and check it all out.
If the servoless retracts work well in mine, I'm happy to ask Tim from RC lander if he an make ones for your plane.
Heh George or anyone else, can you Post up some photos of how the steering of front wheel works with the servo installation and connection to steerable nose wheel or instruction manual ?
As i have the Turnigy Oleo's That are the same that came in the post Last week.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...class.html
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For my Mirage Build
Steve
(09-07-2012, 08:02 PM)samste Wrote: [ -> ]Heh George or anyone else, can you Post up some photos of how the steering of front wheel works with the servo installation and connection to steerable nose wheel or instruction manual ?
As i have the Turnigy Oleo's That are the same that came in the post Last week.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...class.html
For my Mirage Build
Steve
Hi Steve, I haven't set mine up yet, but all you need is a pushrod with a clevis on one end connected to the sliding steering tab on the the nose leg, the other end to of the push rod to the servo (Z bend). Place the servo in a position to keep the push rod clear when the gear is retracted, the tab slides down and up the shaft when the retract is operated. The servo will push/pull the rod for stearing. see attached picture as a guide (Ignore the push rod guide in the picture)
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Thanks George, That should work ok,
EDIT p.s these are Rc lander that i Have, actually has it printed on side, wanted to get another set as the nose steer setup works fine like you pic, but there all sold out now.
Steve
(10-07-2012, 05:27 PM)samste Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks George, That should work ok,
EDIT p.s these are Rc lander that i Have, actually has it printed on side, wanted to get another set as the nose steer setup works fine like you pic, but there all sold out now.
Steve
Yes, Hobbyking full metal retracts are all RC lander.
George is spot on there Steve. The sliding arm on one side of the front retract get connected to a normal STEEL clevis. dont use plastic they will fail from the sliding and rubbing.
Here is a pics of the front wheel in my big Trojan using Eflite retracts with the same type of linkage, just make sure you have it adjusted correctly for both the up and down positions before secuing the servo to prevent structural damage that can be caused by the servo over strocking the limits of the retract arm.
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Thanks Gaz for That, as i always Used these ones below pictured which are really good, but there dear and always out of Stock, and bugger me there in stock now.
They have a real easy setup to them for steering and compact.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=15204
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oh well i got them now might as well use them
Here is the Super Tucano Pics guys.
The most troublsome build I have done, purely because I have converted it to electric and the battery tray is smack bange in the center of everthing, it would have been 10 times easier if I had used E flite Retracts, but the top quality alloy ones that came with it were to good not to use.
You will see from the photos that I still haven't installed the wheel wells that's because the servo mods necessary have stuffed them up a bit, I will finish them tomorrow. I am running a Hacker A50-14V2 motor spinning an APC 15 x 10 prop with a smic paint job.
Power is though a Dualsky 80amp ESC on 6S 5000 25C batteries.
Spectrum AR 7000 with 6 x Turnigy MG958 13 kg servos and 2 x Turnigy MG959 15kg servos in the flaps. Very happy with the finished product, its typical Seagull models quality... Excellent.
The fat bastard weighs 5.4 kgs with flight battery. I may need to up the power a little. I will make that decision on Sunday after a few taxi runs at PEMAC and possible maiden.
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Very nice Gaz,
Look forward to seeing it fly.
I should be posting a couple of photos of a new model that
I am just finishing off, hopefully tomorrow.
Wow Gary. It looks so big. Or you have shrunk. Very nice build.