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Q & A Thread For Newbies & Old Hands Alike!

ok guys . i have narrowed down the receiver flashing on the new extra 330 foamy model to the new 30 AMP ESC .
i removed the orange park flyer and fitted a spectrum 6 channel with sattelite receiver , BINDED IT , got a solid light , tested all channels fine , gave it a bit of 4 channel use , and bingo , FLASHING . disconnected and turned off tx , turned on tx and reconnected receiver and the solid light come back , same scenario . i then refitted the orange park flyer , BINDED IT , solid light , and the exact same thing happened .
CONCLUSION - assumption , THE BEC voltage is dropping down under load . this happened without me using the motor also . ( i just hope it isnt a dud SERVO ) ---- they are glued in .
the motor at full song does not cause the flashing to occur . so still could be tx .

i tried the cessna with its own spectrum receiver and binded that . it works without going into flash mode . although when it is plugged in , it isnt counting the cells , instead it is beeping 2 short beeps , and then a long one . other than that is is workking fine .
i then BINDED THE STINGER WITH ITS OWN receiver spektrum , and satelite and that works exactly as it should .

so only the new foamy is browning out .
WHAT A CAN OF WORMS . !!!!!

At one stage the extra 330 lost its bindd and froze its channels on the test floor . i have had 3 crashes due to the same thing with this TX before repair . . i have had lots of trouble so far with electrics that i did not have before .
i'm now not confident in the TX , OR THE 30AMP new ESC , with the new extra 330 . i do not know why the cessna , when plugged in beeps twice and then once ( hi pitched beep - not the cell counting loud deep beep ) . thats not what it should be doing , and the stinger seems to be fine ) i did try fully charged , different battery packs also , so the problems arent batteries .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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Sorry to horn in on this thread, but am in process of ordering the Pitts Special. Frank R is using 850mAh 3s, HK recommend 1300mAh, HK forum guy using 2200mAh but nowhere is C rating mentioned, 20c, 25c, 30c, 35c, 40c all available (will probably stick with Franks 800 suggestion to keep weight down for easier flying). My electrical ignorance still present & guidance needed please.
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(06-05-2012, 07:28 PM)wingtipper Wrote:  ok guys . i have narrowed down the receiver flashing on the new extra 330 foamy model to the new 30 AMP ESC .
i removed the orange park flyer and fitted a spectrum 6 channel with sattelite receiver , BINDED IT , got a solid light , tested all channels fine , gave it a bit of 4 channel use , and bingo , FLASHING . disconnected and turned off tx , turned on tx and reconnected receiver and the solid light come back , same scenario . i then refitted the orange park flyer , BINDED IT , solid light , and the exact same thing happened .
CONCLUSION - assumption , THE BEC voltage is dropping down under load . this happened without me using the motor also . ( i just hope it isnt a dud SERVO ) ---- they are glued in .
the motor at full song does not cause the flashing to occur . so still could be tx .

i tried the cessna with its own spectrum receiver and binded that . it works without going into flash mode . although when it is plugged in , it isnt counting the cells , instead it is beeping 2 short beeps , and then a long one . other than that is is workking fine .
i then BINDED THE STINGER WITH ITS OWN receiver spektrum , and satelite and that works exactly as it should .

so only the new foamy is browning out .
WHAT A CAN OF WORMS . !!!!!

At one stage the extra 330 lost its bindd and froze its channels on the test floor . i have had 3 crashes due to the same thing with this TX before repair . . i have had lots of trouble so far with electrics that i did not have before .
i'm now not confident in the TX , OR THE 30AMP new ESC , with the new extra 330 . i do not know why the cessna , when plugged in beeps twice and then once ( hi pitched beep - not the cell counting loud deep beep ) . thats not what it should be doing , and the stinger seems to be fine ) i did try fully charged , different battery packs also , so the problems arent batteries .

suspicion confirmed . it was the ESC . NOW IM UP FOR ANOTHER . want a 30 amp to 40 amp one with BEC .
can anyone recommend one . obviously i cannot recommend the MYSTERY ONE .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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(06-05-2012, 09:49 PM)Flying fisho Wrote:  Sorry to horn in on this thread, but am in process of ordering the Pitts Special. Frank R is using 850mAh 3s, HK recommend 1300mAh, HK forum guy using 2200mAh but nowhere is C rating mentioned, 20c, 25c, 30c, 35c, 40c all available (will probably stick with Franks 800 suggestion to keep weight down for easier flying). My electrical ignorance still present & guidance needed please.
Simply put:
Lighter battery means it will 3d better, Heavier means it will be limited to larger maneuvers like loops and rolls.

Obviously, flight times will be affected with the difference in capacity as well
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(06-05-2012, 09:49 PM)Flying fisho Wrote:  Sorry to horn in on this thread, but am in process of ordering the Pitts Special. Frank R is using 850mAh 3s, HK recommend 1300mAh, HK forum guy using 2200mAh but nowhere is C rating mentioned, 20c, 25c, 30c, 35c, 40c all available (will probably stick with Franks 800 suggestion to keep weight down for easier flying). My electrical ignorance still present & guidance needed please.

20c will be fine, i have a few of 1000ma and 1300ma lipos if you want to test with pitts before you spend the cash on the one you want to use on it.

Steve

Tip to work out easily is below ( x .0 )

simply times ma rating of lipo with c rating with .0 in front of c rating

1000ma at 20c is 20 amps cont supply to motor (1000x.020)
1000ma at 25c is 25 amps cont supply to motor (1000x.025)
1000ma at 40c is 40 amps cont supply to motor (1000x.040)
2250ma at 30c is 67.5 amps cont supply to motor (2250x.030)
2650ma at 45c is 119.25 amps cont supply to motor (2650 x .045)

What Do You Mean Theres a Throttle Curve ?, Its Either all the way up or all the way down Tongue_smile
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Thanks steve, will order 2 x 800mAh anyway to get me started as Frank suggested (more docile weight). As easy as people have stated it is to fly, I will still find it a bit of a handful
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Wingtipper,
I've had a similar thing happen with a Turnigy thrust 40A esc, the inbuilt BEC didn't have the herb to drive the servo's, it wasn't putting out anywhere near it's rated current and obviously faulty

Please note, that weather the motor is running or not shouldn't effect the ESC's innternal BEC.
The BEC doesn't provide any power for the motor. It only powers the servo's and the reciever. It's the reciever that provides the PWM signal to the ESC this is true but the amount of power needed for that signal is very small compaired to what's required to drive a servo.

Concider measureing the amount of current your servos are drawing too. You might have one servo that is drawing a lot of current and causing the ESC's BEC to over load. This is another possibility, but an easy enough one to diagnose with a multi-meter. Bring it over one afternoon and I can have a look at it if you like. Smile

Good thing you noticed this before it went into the air !!


“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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When i pulled the esc out of the stinger and fitted it , it had no issues whT so ever thats also a 30amp one . So i hopped onto hk and ordered a hk 35amp one from aussie warehouse . In stock . It was that or 20 amp one so for 4bucks got the 35amp one . 10 grams heavier than the 30 amp one .

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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Make sure you put a note on the dodgy ESC so you don't use it on another project !!

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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Hi guys,
I got a small problem installing the motor in my HET flying wing.     As can be seen the front of the fuselage/pod is not straight.
       

One side is considerably thicker than the other, and no this is NOT side thrust.

Instruction manual pic is page 6 of : http://www.modelflight.com.au/ProdInfo/F...manual.pdf

Should I sand it back to even or should I fill out the shallow end? Either way I think it would look messy.... Frown


BTW, wings and ailerons/elevons fitted together just fine, seemed like a simple build till this....




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Its hard to tell from the photo, but if the angle on the mount is down and to the right it will be preset thrust angle. Bring it down to the field so I can have a look at it.

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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it's too severe for thrust angle and when I attempt to screw the motor in, it twists the motor to an awkward mis-aligned kind of angle. Instruction manual pic seems dead straight. I'll bring it down this weekend.




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Buy Hobby King, need this thread..lol. Assembled HK Pitts Special, appears Ailerons have no adjustment (ie no clevis) apart fron tx trimming. Getting ailerons in line with wing at centre stick required max right trim, resuling in reduced right travel. Took Frank R's advice & swapped battery & rx positions for CG purposes. Currently CG appears mid top wing. Presume this co-relates to 1/3 from leading edge if measured leading edge top wing to trailing edge buttom wing. Came with no instructions Ie.... heeeeelp. Found instructions on HK site. CG at rear limit but will bring 2mrw and hope to drain a little from Gaz's experience to get it flyable.
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G'day Wayne

Pull her apart again, pull the horn off the aileron servo, re centre the servo w/ no trim or sub trim and reposition the horn to centre the ailerons, fine adjust w/ sub trim. Then after a few happy flights bend up new control wires to attach things properly.
That's what I did with my one along with a myriad of other things.
I hope to pop down to the field tomorrow and am intending to bring my Pitts, I can run you through what I did, there's nothing too complicated involved.
Really curious about your batt position. We are way way different re that.

Cheers
Rob B

1.64m V tail Glider
F-27 (Ted) Stryker
XB70 Valkyrie 70mm EDF
HK Pitts Special
Twister 3D Storm / Trex 600ESP Airwolf Heli's
Viper Jet 70mm EDF
Project Bravo Two
Project '67
Spektrum DX8 Mode 1,3
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There is another hatch foreward of the normal battery hatch. Put some velcro on the back of the firewall & attached battery there. Only using a 800mAh 3s turnigy battery to keep weight down (battery & position same as Frank R's but did not have any of the foam he used to form battery housing in that position) Will be interested to see your mods, I was cursing putting this thing together as per normal HK assemblies. All hints & tips at field will be appreciated, but will need to leave field by 11 2mrw (giving my son a chance to finally beat me at golf)

"Flying might not be all plain sailing, but the fun of it is worth the price."
Amelia Earhart

E-flite Apprentice WS 1475 (the best trainer) Thumbup
Parkzone P-47D Thumbup Thunderbolt & T-28 Trojan Thumbup
E-flite Eratix 3D 25e Thumbup Thumbup
E-flite Extra 300 3D indoor flier
E-flite Rhapsody Balsa biplane - on repair bench
Super N Cheaper Edge 540. under build
SRL Extra 330 3D depron profile plane

Spektrum DX6i & DX8
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Hi Wayne, I've got a spare block of foam, I'll bring it down tomorrow.
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(11-05-2012, 11:41 PM)Frank Wrote:  Hi Wayne, I've got a spare block of foam, I'll bring it down tomorrow.

Thanks Frank, may be useful if velcro doesnt hold
(11-05-2012, 11:14 PM)robair Wrote:  Pull her apart again, pull the horn off the aileron servo, re centre the servo w/ no trim or sub trim and reposition the horn to centre the ailerons, fine adjust w/ sub trim.

removed wing & found aileron clevises (feel like a goose)
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In regards to my HET Flying Wing.., tried dremmelling away the excess fibreglass inside the firewall, as the motor would not sit right. Been sitting on this problem for months!
No good, even dremmelled a small hole in the bottom Frown

So I rang up Modelflight, spoke to a real nice bloke who said "I'm not the first to have this problem"....

Was told (as the pod on it's own is not available) to basically cut off firewall and make one myself, make a hole in the fibreglasss and patch it up with plywood Frown but.... I get some credit on my next purchase Smile don't know how much, but I'm happy.
Conclusion..., stay away from HET models. Their manufacturing standards are up their bottom (just saving Kieran from the profanity filter Wink )

I should have bought the Multiplex Xeno, as for months I was keen on that, then saw this and thought, 'no(!), this flying wing is much better, balsa and fibreglass not foam'.





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Arron make up a new firewall (or front plate) out of some 2mm carbon fibre sheet or something similar and epoxy it on to the fusalage with the stuff the Turbine guys use (I'm pretty sure Darren can help you out getting some) it is easy to apply and will NEVER EVER come off.
Gazz

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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If anyone would like to fix this as Gazza has pointed out and fix motor into position, I'll pay for materials, and buy a case of beer (of their choice of course) for their troubles.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           




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The Glue is called Hysol
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Bring it down to the field next weekend and I'll have a look at it
Also bring the motor you want to mount on the front of it




“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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(28-05-2012, 10:45 PM)secant0give Wrote:  Bring it down to the field next weekend and I'll have a look at it
Also bring the motor you want to mount on the front of it

No worries Jason.




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Had today off & headed off to Hobs in the Hills to get a replacement Trojan wing and started talking to Sean. Next thing you know I have an E-Flite Eratix 3D 25e in the back of my car. http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Defaul...ID=EFL4075 . Have been assured that with toned down rates it will land slow, fly slow or fast & sedately & adjustable as ability increases. Box promotes suitable for intermediate pilots. Also as a balsa model will be less affected by the wind than a foamy. I am also interested in progressing to 3D flight.
Came ARF, so need a suitable setup. Lower performance setup recommends 25 power 870kv motor with a 60A speedie, 4200mAh 3S battery & 14 x 7 prop. I already have a Turnigy G-25 710kv motor at home that will fit but want to make sure I have sufficient thrust. Presume that means more power less RPM using what I have. Should I increase to 4s or increase prop pitch, or buy new motor. Suggestions please guys including HK servo's.
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I think the G25 will do OK on 3S you can just prop it up slightly to get the same power from it
you might try a 15X6 prop and find it's great.

By the way just looking at that machine it looks like a very nice plane!!

This ESC will do the job
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...A_ESC.html
but you will need a seperate Bec like this one, you'll want one that can deliver 5Amps
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._UBEC.html

Servo's like these would be OK
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...14sec.html

But if you want the best servos for the job then it's hard to go past these but it'll cost
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hitec-HS-5085...ccessories&hash=item45fd6b7916

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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Thats a pretty 3D monster you got there Wayne.
The 3S package with surfice at your current skill level, 4S would probably be a little to "on the edge of out of control", but you can certainly grow into it.
Bring it down this saturday so I can have a good look at it, but I recon Turnigy or Corona MG 929 or 939's will be on the money, I'd go the 929's they are full digital and metal gear and are very fast.
It weighs about as much as a good shit, so power won't be an issue.

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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Such a shame Wayne, I have one for sale pretty much ready built (The Moneyshot is a clone of the Eflite Eratix.)

Look at my equipment list for config ideas
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(29-05-2012, 11:14 PM)gbanger Wrote:  Thats a pretty 3D monster you got there Wayne.
The 3S package with surfice at your current skill level, 4S would probably be a little to "on the edge of out of control", but you can certainly grow into it.
Bring it down this saturday so I can have a good look at it, but I recon Turnigy or Corona MG 929 or 939's will be on the money, I'd go the 929's they are full digital and metal gear and are very fast.
It weighs about as much as a good shirt, so power won't be an issue.

Just looking at the Corona MG 929 servo's, I didn't know about those, They look like a good little unit too. probably better than the ones I suggested.
Basically in a servo for a 3D plane you want everything, speed, power, resolution, good centering and duribility.
At around 2.7Kg cm you should be OK with power, speed is OK at .13, these are the specs if you run it at 6V that's why I'd go for a seperate Bec. If you use this one instead of the one I suggested in my earlier post you can run at 6V and Have 5A
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Lipo_.html
You want a minimum of 5A with your Bec because those servo's need the current to opperate at that speed and with that much torque. If you fly 3D you will work them hard. I know it says the opperating current is 200 to 240 mA but I'll wager the stall current will run much much higher.


I'm suprised that noone has brought Kieran's "Moneyshot" I reckon it's a bargain I would probably have brought it by now other than we need a new lounge at home and every spair cent is going towards that at the moment and a trip away comming up soon as well.
It would be a good one to get and practice with and perhaps put the Eratix aside for a little later.

With 3d models you can't have too many, If you ask me why tho'. The answer is .................. "not telling" Smile

Either way you'll be suprised at how easily a good 3D machine flies and you'll wonder how anyone could ever crash one.






“The knack of flying is learning how to throw your machine at the ground and miss.”

"When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your thoughts turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return."  ~Leonardo Da Vinci
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Oh come on Jason! Your just not trying hard enough, its easy to crash 3D planes.
All you have to do is try a simple 3D manouver way to close to the ground and fly outside your comfort zone, or try doing it with balls bigger than the pair your wearing .
Rofl

Parkzone Stryker 27 Evolution
E flite Ultra Stick , T 28 Carbon Z
Skyartec Skyfun Scorpion,Skyfun 90 EDF
Hobbyking Voltigeur, Funfighter T28, Mirage 2000, Minimoa 2.4m Glider
Jet Teng L-39 HPAT Stumax 90
Pheonix Tiger 50
FliteWork Extra 300 LPX 2.6M
Spectrum DX9i , DX6

Don't ever let the fear of landing keep you from taking off!
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Gary , Jason brings 3D planes back from the dead , i wont mention his planes but when the KATANA went down ( which was a radio glitch ) and was lying in the grass in about 6 peices , but held together by its covering , Claudio said i could always take it over Jasons place and just leave it there and you never know , it might just magically become rebirthed . never the less . We all know your right , i'm looking at the moneyshot and picturing it's life span , i'm currently practicing 3D with a foamy , and my comfort zone is about 300ft LOL . I guess the fun of 3D , is you get to fly many planes !!!!! WELL SO I'M TOLD , AND I'M NOT ONE TO ARGUE .
Wayne good luck . the plane looks great , i'm sure it will fly well in sport trim , but 3d trim !!!! watching the guys do it , is BIG BALL territory . HAHA !!!

patience !!Biggrin paaatience !!Paranoid paaaaaatience Tounge paaaaaaatieeence Lol dooooohhhh !!! Upset


DANGER WIFE CAN READ FORUMS . love you darling . sig changed .
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