[kizza42]

Have used both of these for extended periods of time:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=6313
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=6320

[smuzz]

Hi Steve
I like the Stuka always have.
We spoke about the Hurricane last weekend and I noticed a build thread
on RCGroups today. Are youaware of it?
Here is the link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1499408
It looks like a great model too.

Thanks Paul - yep, Jeff's thread showed up in a search I did last week.
He seems like a hardcore warbird fan and has done a lot of work on foamies. He did a really good job on scale flaps for the Parkzone Bf-109 which made good reading.

Thanks too Kizza.

Cheers,
Steve

[secant0give]

I have 2 of these but you need to use a 2S lip pack to run them.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=6313

I have also use these ESCs with good results

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._SBEC.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...s_ESC.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...A_ESC.html this one has no Bec

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...A_ESC.html this one I use in my funjet it has no bec either

[smuzz]

Thanks Jason!

[gbanger]

Hey Claudio
How did you go with your EDF search, I found this on HK and it looks worthy of a little interest, especially when it can develop over 1 kg of thrust. The general rull of thumb is the more blades the smoother the turbine plus its easier to balance. If you run it with a 28mm ARC motor it will rock the house. They are dreaming with the ESC I would not run anything under a 60 Plush.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._64mm.html
Gazz

[Claudius]

Hey Gazz,

Thanks for taking a look for me!

I've got one of each of these on order:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=10985
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=11163
after deciding to try to find HK parts as close to a "stock" replacement as possible.

I dare say that I'll be wanting to upgrade it at some stage, and so I've got the one you listed tucked in the wishlist for the future (25A ESC? Yeah, I don't think so!)

[Flying fisho]

It has been suggested to change all power plugs to the one type & bullet plugs seem to be the go. From the speedie, should the red go to the male or female pin. Hope I have explained the question understandably

[Too Drunk to Fly]

XT60's are the go for me.... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...oduct=9572 male is.... (imagine a penis here.... where female is a socket...... ) they are diferent plugs. male and female plugs. Red goes to positive + and black goes to negative -

electricity is a circuit positive is IN negative is OUT, continually travelling in this circuit.

bullet plugs are still good though just remeber positive + RED and negetive BLACK -

[samste]

   

Does This Help ?



Xt60's are the Go since they came already on most lipos in Hobbyking

Steve

[Skidz]

Wayne, on the ESC side with bullets, RED (+) is a male connector and the BLACK (-) is female. Note that not all bullets are the same size. Best to get bullets that match the batteries when they arrive from HK... and guess what, they will be XT60 connectors as mentioned. XT60s are just 3mm bullets in a molded plug and socket. They seem good to me (but no good for the Logo which draws over 100A at 42V - so I use 5mm bullets).

[Flying fisho]

Thanks for the advice fellas, can prfoceed with confidence now. I can see a few preferences for connectors, which reminds me of an old saying of mine, there is no such thing as good and bad (in most things) only personal preferences. I can see the logic in Gaz's preference for the bullets in that the plugs can be heated to soldering temperature & connected to the wires before clicking into the plastic housings. No offence intended to those who suggested otherwise.

[samste]

Wayne It's Really what your Personal Preference is in the connector as i don't think which ever way you go is a major issue as there all tried and tested ways of connections and work fine.

But it is a good idea to keep in your big bag of goodies some adaptors from bullet to xt60 bullet to Dean etc
As they will come in handy in a pinch when at the field and need to use a lipo that some may lend you or to charge on a different charger etc.

Also Thanks for the Help Yesterday, Your Field bag is getting quite impressive with all the bits and pieces, Just missing that mini Drill lol.
Steve

[Flying fisho]

Also Thanks for the Help Yesterday, Your Field bag is getting quite impressive with all the bits and pieces, Just missing that mini Drill lol.[/b]
Steve
Already have a 600w inverter, a small drill may not be all that far off

[chrism]

Hi Guys,
I am after some help/advice on buying a plane from overseas.

I have developed a liking for the Curtiss P40 after seeing them in NZ and recently in Temora, plus they were extensively flown by Australian squadrons.
So for Australia Day 2012 I wanted to get my hands on a Curtiss P40 dressed in 75 squadron livery to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the squadrons formation back in 1942 - this would also tie in with the Australia Day theme.

Anyhow I found the model that I want, Kyosho Curtiss P40E Warhawk EP.
http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/de..._id=104546

Unfortunately it appears that there are none in the country unless a hobby shop has one tucked away somewhere, hence my question.
I have found that they are readily available in the USA and quite reasonably priced, but the freight is ridiculous.
Model = US$160
Freight = US$186

Has anyone got any ideas on how to get into the country without being ripped off on the freight?
Is NZ or Sth East Asia a better option if I can find one there?

I am particularly after the Kyosho model as it fits well into the size of planes I like, plus it has the rotating retracts as used on the P40's and the covering would be relatively easily converted to 75 Squadron.

Thanks
Chris M

[gbanger]

Depends on who you are buying it from Chris.
I have purchased a few things from Esprit Model in the USA.
And I actually speak to them and get custom shipping done through Express American Post. (Not sure if that is the correct name)
It is less than half the cost of Fedex. My hotliner arrived in a box 1000mm x 400mm x300mm and it only cost $68.00
With Fedex is was over $200.00
Hope this helps

[chrism]

Depends on who you are buying it from Chris.
I have purchased a few things from Esprit Model in the USA.
And I actually speak to them and get custom shipping done through Express American Post. (Not sure if that is the correct name)
It is less than half the cost of Fedex. My hotliner arrived in a box 1000mm x 400mm x300mm and it only cost $68.00
With Fedex is was over $200.00
Hope this helps

Thanks Gazz,
I looked at the Esprit web site but they are unfortunately out of stock at present.
I will keep trying the numerous US sites but if anyone could assist or has any ideas I would be most appreciative.

Cheers
Chris M

[kizza42]

Did you speak to these guys?
http://www.hallamhobbies.com.au/index.php?ID=6&DID=96
They have a good rep down in Melbourne.

http://www.dawntrading.com.au/
Are the distributors for Kyosho in australia, perhaps an email their way might help, I also think Micky @ Kelletts deals with them, maybe give him a call.

http://www.coltaylormodels.com/shop/index.jsp
Also stock Kyosho, if anyone is gonna have one in the back, it'll be them.

http://www.austars-model.com/index.php
Also might have something tucked out the back.

Short of that I reckon your best bey may be shipping from HongKong or Singapore. I found two stockists via Kyosho's website that might help there.

[chrism]

Did you speak to these guys?
http://www.hallamhobbies.com.au/index.php?ID=6&DID=96
They have a good rep down in Melbourne.

http://www.dawntrading.com.au/
Are the distributors for Kyosho in australia, perhaps an email their way might help, I also think Micky @ Kelletts deals with them, maybe give him a call.

http://www.coltaylormodels.com/shop/index.jsp
Also stock Kyosho, if anyone is gonna have one in the back, it'll be them.

http://www.austars-model.com/index.php
Also might have something tucked out the back.

Short of that I reckon your best bey may be shipping from HongKong or Singapore. I found two stockists via Kyosho's website that might help there.

Thanks Kieran,
I believe Dawn trading is out of stock and isn't expecting anything before the new year - this info is from Hobbies At The Hills & RC Headquarters.

I looked at Col Taylor & Hallam Hobbies and they didn't have one according to their web sites (Hallam did have the IC version).

Just tried Austar, nothing on web site, will ring Monday.

I will now try the Kyosho stockists in Hong Kong/Singapore.

Thanks Again
Chris M

[paulj]

Hi Chris
If getting from US the method you want is USPS (United States Postal Service)
Lots of people get it mixed up with UPS which is a freight company same as Fedex.
Fedex and UPS will always be a lot dearer as the are International couriers
that offer door to door service.

[chrism]

Hi Chris
If getting from US the method you want is USPS (United States Postal Service)
Lots of people get it mixed up with UPS which is a freight company same as Fedex.
Fedex and UPS will always be a lot dearer as the are International couriers
that offer door to door service.

Thanks for that info Paul but unfortunately the company that I found (A Main Hobbies) did not offer the US Postal Service as an option. Perhaps I should search for a US site that does.

Cheers
Chris M

[wingtipper]

ok guys . forgive me if there is a related thread here somewhere .
maybe this thread might be able to become a sticky .

i would like this to be an educational thread where members like myself can learn about the transition from gas engines to electrics .
examples : motor differences (size , speed , power ,rpm per volt , amps etc) and what these actually mean .
: speed controllers and compatability with motors and batteries .
:battery differences and applications.
:battery chargers
: any other things appropriate .


example of why ?
eg , i'm a beginner and want to buy a new plane , the website offers a suggestion of hardware to be fitted . say the website suggests a motor heres a link package http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...duct=15160.

now what if i want a bigger motor , and it has 550rpm /volt instead of 670 rpm /volt . and what about if i want to upgrade the esc .
its not so simple when its new to you , i've tried to learn online . but really havent been able to grasp any detail .
any help advice appreciated , and any thing else here no matter how hi tech -for the experts even .
but in simple laymans terms : the basics explained would be a big help . cause i often read that suggested motors etc are underpowered of the esc is crap etc etc etc .
it was pretty straight forward with glow plug engines /props /fuel mixes etc.
today we have different rpms per volt / faster and slower batteries FFS!
GET MY DRIFT .
THANKS IN ADVANCE . [/font]

[robair]

G'day Frank

Seeing as PRCAC is an all electric club you are in the right spot to get some excellent advice.
May I suggest you post up some specific questions so we can get started?
In the interim pay a visit to AEFA's website. They have some good info, I am on my iPhone at the moment, will edit post the URL as soon as I am back in front of my pc.
Cheers
Rob B

---

G'day Frank

Seeing as PRCAC is an all electric club you are in the right spot to get some excellent advice.
May I suggest you post up some specific questions so we can get started?

Cheers
Rob B

[wingtipper]

the 1st question that comes to mind , is
1 : how do i identify an electric motor for the size of plane.
in an easier way , say 46 size plane . equivalent motors . how do i identify 46 size motors of all brands .

and is it possible to have a great 40 size motor that out performs a 50 size .? thanks Rob.

[samste]

Here's something that may help, motor calc and general information in calculating setup.

http://www.drivecalc.de/

ampd3.pdf Size: 745.43 KB  Downloads: 514

Steve

[gbanger]

The selection of motors for a specific aircraft is a grey art that takes a very long time to learn. There is no right or wrong and there are certainly no lines drawn in the sand when it comes to picking a drive train for a specific job.
There are a multitude of factors that determine what you need the best one Ive found that will help you work out what you should be using is

http://www.e-fliterc.com/ProdInfo/Files/...rement.pdf

But there is no substitute for experience, so if you are thinking about buying a specific aircraft the best thing to do to help you get the best package to suit your requirements is to pick the brains of the guys who have been doing it for a long time.

Cheers
Gazz

[smuzz]

Yes Frank, when I first got into electric RC a couple of years ago I discovered the same thing - there are lots of variations available which simply don't exist in the IC world. For example, my pride and joy as a teenager was my two-stroke OS Max .15 for control-line aircraft - there wasn't a great deal to learn as there were only two different sized propellers it would take (an 8*6 or an 8*4) and only one type of fuel was available.
Electrics are way more interesting because of the variations. The links the guys have posted above are pretty good and should provide good reading, the fundamentals you'll see are ...
1. The 100 Watts per 500 g of takeoff weight (again, there are variations, but it's a starting point)
2. Lower KV motors mean larger pitch/diameter props compared to higher KV motors for the same power consumption.
3. Get yourself a wattmeter, can't live without one!

Have fun and post back again because there are others in the club who know way more than I do and are only too willing to help out.

[wingtipper]

thanks fellas , very helpful already . hours of research there . LOL @ pick the brains of others , i'm old enough now to realize that's the easiest and best option .

[secant0give]

I usually go for an ESC that is rated about 20A above what I need. I think Gazz has mentioned this a few times as well.

The reason being is that in most cases motors cool down quicker than ESCs
The motor is mostly right up there in the front with good air flow and easy to put a finger on to see how hot it is. Often an ESC is tucked away where it's got less air flow and it's harder to check if it's warm as well. A good ESC can be more costly than the motor, but not allways. Bear in mind that motor will only draw current to match the amout it's loaded. So you won't harm a motor that is rated at 20A with a 40A ESC unless you load the motor so that it's drawing more than 20A.

You need to match the prop to the motor to load it correctly. If you load it too much it will draw more current than it's rated for and over heat. If you load it less then you are not getting the full potential out of your system. This is where your Amp/Watt meter comes in very handy. It removes the guess work.

Voltage X Current (Amps) = Watts

So you can change the power (W) by changing the voltage ie adding an exta cell in series or changing the current draw by increasing or decreasing the load with a bigger or smaller prop.

As far as lipo packs go rule of thumb is max current should never exceed the C rating times the Capacity. ie 2200 mAh X 20C = Max current draw of 44 Amps

If you look at the Hobby king listing for motors, you'll often see in the reviews where people have posted test data for those particular motors with different combinations of props it's a very handy guide for motor selection. These often include static thrust which is very nice to know.

Kv roughly means revs per volt. A high KV motor will rev much harder than a low KV one
It's more efficient to use a big prop spinning slow than a small prop spinning fast.

[Servo]

Frank, Here is a useful site:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/

the interesting bits have to do with how you prolong the life of the Lipo (battery temperature) and understanding the ratings.

[Drew]

Super nerdy technical content warning!!! This post may contain formulas unsuitable for those without high school education.


Here's the rub. A plane needs to move through the air faster than the stall speed to be able to generate enough lift from the wings to sustain flight. (There are obvious notable exceptions to this like flat plat airfoils that have their own breed of dynamics - to be acknowledged but ignored. There are other uber-nerdy facts and figures using names like Reynold and words like coefficient that are also acknowledged but again suitably ignored). To do that, the propellor needs to generate enough thrust to overcome the drag of the wing and airframe.


As basic as it can be, the stall speed of an aircraft relates to its wing loading which is often expressed as oz/sqft or g/sqdm. It appears that oz/sqin is more popular with online calculators so let's run with it for now.

As a rule of thumb the stall speed in mph is approximately equal to 3.7 times the square root of the wingloading in ounces per square foot.

So then, there are two targets to hit:
1. Try to get the pitch speed of the prop to be above 2.5x the stall speed of the plane. ie. rpm*pitch=inches/minute and rpm*pitch*63 360/3600=miles/hour.
2. Ensure that the thrust of the prop is more than 1/2 the weight of the craft. 3D craft need at least 1.5x the weight of the craft but scale planes can cope with less than the weight of the plane. We often over power our craft in this respect. Prop thrust is really hard to calculate properly but here's a very rough starting point:
Thrust = Pitch X Diameter^3 X RPM^2 X 10^-10 oz.

So: You need a motor to spin the prop of the chosen diameter and pitch fast enough so you don't stall and generating enough thrust to push the craft through the air.

As suggested, the most reliable way to work this out is to ask the guy who's plane looks like yours and flies really nicely what he uses.


Simple aint it?