[BOB]

Hi guys. Quick question what’s size solder to use when soldering ESC to Power distribution board.
I had it prop strike on the right rear ESC and looks like it’s destroyed it.

Kind regards, Bob.

[samste]

Hi guys. Quick question what’s size solder to use when soldering ESC to Power distribution board.
I had it prop strike on the right rear ESC and looks like it’s destroyed it.

Kind regards, Bob.

if your just resoldering the wire, any size solder will do as long as you solder it well and complete, you may find the solder that was on the esc will require more heat to melt.

If joing wires to esc, twist wires together and then fill with solder completely.

Steve

[secant0give]

If it's new joint I always tin both sides as Samste says fill the stripped end of the wire with solder completely first then tin the pad on the distribution board then push the wire together with the pad then heat both with the iron, (wetting the iron with a little solder first to help the heat conduct) and you should get a good, solid joint.
I think in your case the board will already be tinned so just tin the new ESC wires with any good electronics solder and go for gold!! Just for reference the solder I'm using is .9 of a mm thick but a bit thicker or thinner shouldn't make any difference at all

[BOB]

Hi Jason and Stephen. Thanks for the information much appreciated.

Jason came across a new quad Coptic kit called DART 450 by HobbyKing?, It is a H- quad . Has a built-in Power distribution board in the bottom of course its a clone of the QAV 400 with some improvements including a built-in low voltage alarm I want to do a bit more research but it looks like maybe a bill job that I like to try???.

Looks a bit better than the DYS320 that I posted before the problem with it was ESC were vulnerable to damage if crash or even a heavy landing so no way.

Regards, Bob.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StfKNUwSu4k

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7...Alarm.html

[secant0give]

Looks all right Bob
I quite like the idea of a dirty section for the ESC's motors etc and the clean section for the flight controller and cameras

[RobD]

If it's new joint I always tin both sides as Samste says fill the stripped end of the wire with solder completely first then tin the pad on the distribution board then push the wire together with the pad then heat both with the iron, (wetting the iron with a little solder first to help the heat conduct) and you should get a good, solid joint.
I think in your case the board will already be tinned so just tin the new ESC wires with any good electronics solder and go for gold!! Just for reference the solder I'm using is .9 of a mm thick but a bit thicker or thinner shouldn't make any difference at all

In addition, I can't emphasis enough how much easier your life is when you use additional flux. At home, I just use cheap stuff from ebay like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-BGA-SMD-...tDomain_15&hash=item33a1e30592

Using flux negates the need to wet your iron tip, but it must still be clean for the heat to conduct properly.

[symowallo]

Hey Bob - Kiwi Bruce Sumpson says "Lid free solder uz for huppies and greenies"

It's easier to solder with lead-based stuff as the temperature required to melt it is lower.

Rob's flux idea is good - for crappy solderers like me it's a Godsend.

[Chris Mc]

Is Flux another Kiwi word for something else?